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Routes in Cereal Rock

Alfalfa T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Buckwheat T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Cereal Killer T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Coco Puff S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Frosted Flakes T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Oat Cuisine T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Quaking Oats T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trix T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Bob Gaines and Dave Mayville, May 2013
Page Views: 360 total · 7/month
Shared By: Bob Gaines on Jan 18, 2014
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description [Edit]

Climb flakes up to a steep slab with 3 bolts, then climb over a bulge past another bolt to an easier face to the top.

This climb is very well protected and a good choice if you're breaking into the 10+ grade or working on redpointing a 10+.

At the first bolt you can climb straight up (10+) or move right and back left (5.9). The moves past the second and third bolts are intricate and crimpy (10+), but you're very well protected. The bulge at the fourth bolt and the upper face are relatively easy.

Location [Edit]

From the main road parking/pullout walk around the left side of the West Face to the Northeast Face. 5 min. approach

Protection [Edit]

4 bolts, CDs to 3.5 inches, including #0 and #2 metolius

2-bolt belay/rappel anchor. 70 feet

I used a #1 camalot at the start, then a #4 camalot in the crack on the right.

I equalized a #0 and #2 metolius in the horizontal crack just below the first bolt.

You can get a #2 camalot in the horizontal crack below the fourth bolt, and a #1 camalot in the horizontal above the fourth bolt near the top.

Photos

Mitzi  
Yet another great Bob Gaines route. Fun, tricky, and well protected. Mar 10, 2015

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