Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
Routes in Cereal Rock
|Type:||Trad, 70 ft|
|FA:||Bob Gaines and Dave Mayville, May 2013|
|Page Views:||347 total, 7/month|
|Shared By:||Bob Gaines on Jan 18, 2014|
|Admins:||C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionClimb flakes up to a steep slab with 3 bolts, then climb over a bulge past another bolt to an easier face to the top.
This climb is very well protected and a good choice if you're breaking into the 10+ grade or working on redpointing a 10+.
At the first bolt you can climb straight up (10+) or move right and back left (5.9). The moves past the second and third bolts are intricate and crimpy (10+), but you're very well protected. The bulge at the fourth bolt and the upper face are relatively easy.
LocationFrom the main road parking/pullout walk around the left side of the West Face to the Northeast Face. 5 min. approach
Protection4 bolts, CDs to 3.5 inches, including #0 and #2 metolius
2-bolt belay/rappel anchor. 70 feet
I used a #1 camalot at the start, then a #4 camalot in the crack on the right.
I equalized a #0 and #2 metolius in the horizontal crack just below the first bolt.
You can get a #2 camalot in the horizontal crack below the fourth bolt, and a #1 camalot in the horizontal above the fourth bolt near the top.