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Routes in The Cliffs of Insanity

Butter Cup T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Iocane Powder TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Princess Tried, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
R.O.U.S. S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Six Fingered Man S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Gillett, 2001
Page Views: 265 total, 6/month
Shared By: JFM on Jan 18, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Start in the lichen-y corner, and stem/pull past two bolts into a pod. Place a medium nut or cam (or not?), and pull into the dihedral. Use the finger pockets to move past two more bolts. Moving through and out of the dihedral is the crux of the route. Clip a final bolt once you're out, and cruise to the anchor chains.


It is on the smaller buttress just to the right of the gully, adjacent to the main formation. This is the only bolted route on this piece of rock.


Five bolts with chain-anchors. A short section after the second bolt could use a medium nut or cam (~1 inch) to make getting into the dihedral a bit more secure (i.e., to remove the PG-13 rating).

Watch for some crumbly sections of rock down low. Everything else seems pretty solid.