Avg: 3 from 1 vote
Routes in North Face
|Access Ramp T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b|
|Caught Inside T M4|
|Deception T M5|
|Hobbs-Slate North Face Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|North Buttress T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2|
|North Buttress Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Northeast Wall and Buttress T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Northwest Couloir T WI3-4|
|Northwest Ridge T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a|
|Psychopomp T M4+|
|Torre Couloir (NW Ridge Var) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI2-3 M2|
|Type:||Trad, Mixed, Alpine, 1575 ft, 9 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Preston Rhea & Ryan Evans - 1.12.14|
|Page Views:||802 total, 17/month|
|Shared By:||Preston Rhea on Jan 13, 2014|
|Admins:||Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionDeception features two pitches of technical drytooling up a steep rock band, followed by typical easy Morrison snow gullies and ribs of rock into a deep chasm with a unique chockstone, all of which finally tops out on the Northwest Ridge. Despite the first two pitches, the climbing is very moderate and the chockstone really defines the upper pitches of the route. This line is probably the first to come into condition on the mountain and is very easy to spot early season. It is a great route for those itching to get their scratch on after the first couple big snowfalls.
Pitch 1 - This is the crux pitch of the route and also the reason for the route's name. Don't be fooled by appearances, this pitch and the next pack more of a punch than it would seem from below. A short easy section of snow over blocky rock leads to a steep rock face. Follow the weaknesses straight up over the grey rock towards an intrusion of red rock and a small snow patch and ledge. On March 16th of 2016, this pitch and the next were coated in a good amount of water ice. This seems to be a rare formation and should not be counted on. 70m
Pitch 2 - Climb straight up off the ledge via a crack and chimney. Almost immediately there is the option of continuing straight up in the red rock or traversing left around a grey arete on the grey rock. Go left staying on the grey rock and aiming for what looks like a blocky ramp system. Awkward full-value climbing up the ramp leads to an easy snow couloir and the belay. 65m
Pitch 3 - Follow the snow couloir up off the belay almost to where it ends. Traverse left over red rock into another snow couloir that is quite narrow. Follow this up over one easy rock step to a rope-stretching belay at the base of a rock rib with a couloir on the left and right. 70m
Pitch 4 - Climb up the rock rib or couloir on left or right depending on snow conditions and easiness of the rib. If comfortable, the party should simul-climb from the start of this pitch up to the start of pitch 7 or so. ~70m
Pitch 5 - Climb up more of the rib and couloir on the left, aiming all the while for a deep cleft in the rock above on the left. ~70m
Pitch 6 - Climb up into the narrow couloir in the deep cleft. A couple large chockstones preceded by a short rock step will be encountered. Belay below the second chockstone in a large snow cave. ~70m
Pitch 7 - Climb out of the cave passing the large chockstone on climber's right. Chimney through a hole behind the chockstone and then out onto the face. A short pitch here will reduce rope drag. 15m
Pitch 8 - Continue up the couloir passing rock sections however easiest. Here is another good pitch to start simul-climbing up to the top. ~70m
Pitch 9 - Continue up the couloir passing more rock sections however easiest to where the route ends on the Northwest Ridge. ~50m
From here follow the Northwest Ridge to the summit or to the ground. If continuing on to the summit, there is still around 1500' of 3rd class climbing to go.
LocationThe route starts on the northwestern shoulder of Mount Morrison, in the back corner between the north buttress of Morrison and the sub-peak of Torre De Mierda. The start of the route is easily identifiable by a large grey "S" on its side (rotated 90° counter clockwise) surrounded by red rock. Start on the left side of the "S". Up close it will look more like a large "U".
The route ends on the Northwest Ridge of Mount Morrison. To descend, climb the ridge to the summit and descend via the East Face. Another option is to descend the Northwest Ridge and skip the summit. Head down loose 3rd class terrain until a large open couloir to skier's right (north) which should be taken to get off the ridge. This is very loose 2nd class talus or snow.