Type: Trad, Ice, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 817 total · 14/month
Shared By: Preston Rhea on Jan 10, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

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A fantastic route right next to Horsetail Falls that offers fun stepped ice climbing for a couple of short pitches. In heavy snowfall years, this climb can be completely covered and offers no real ice climbing. The ice is usually much better quality than neighboring Horsetail Falls because of a much smaller water flow.

Some years the top does not form completely and a short and easy mixed step (M1-2) will lead to the top.


The North Gully is the first climb you come upon on the normal approaches to Horsetail Falls.

To descend, there are a couple options. Along the route there are a couple rap stations: a flake 20' below the top, a small group of trees just after the first steep ice step. Bring webbing to back up the stations and probably two 60m ropes. A single 70m may be able to descend with a bit of work. The other options would be to top out and walk over to the various bolts on top of Horsetail Falls and rappel those lines (it also requires two 60m ropes to reach the bottom). Finally, there is always the option to walk off to climber's right or left depending on if you are going to climb Horsetail Falls after or are just heading back to the car.


A rack of ice screws. If the top is not in great condition, a set of nuts may prove useful.