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Routes in 4 - Superfly Sector

100 Degrees of Solitude S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Betamorphosis S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Broken Biscuit S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Entertain with Ease S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Superfly S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Alex Kirkpatrick
Page Views: 68 total, 1/month
Shared By: Alex Kirkpatrick on Jan 9, 2014
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

This route is a variation finish to Betamorphosis. Once through the crux bulge of Betamorphosis, continue right through sustained difficulty instead of escaping left to easier ground.

Bring your boxing gloves and dancing shoes for this thuggy but delicate route. Climb awesome 5.12 to a ledge and rest up for the boulder problem crux shared by Betamorphosis. A critcal hold has broken and this thing is ROWDY. Get randy with it and punch your way through fat pinches and a low percentage huck (you look just like Chris Sharma, trust me dude). Recover at a good rest (you could even take your shirt off here and throw it down to the ladies), then take the path less traveled up and right through delicate moves involving fancy footwork and big time body tension. Sidepull, slap, and "BBHAAAHHTTTT" your way through the final boulder problem to the chains.

Location

Begins on Betamorphosis and then moves right after the crux.

Protection

11 bolts to chains

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