Type: Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 2000 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 644 total · 9/month
Shared By: Cissa Carvalho on Jan 8, 2014
Admins: Tony Yeary

You & This Route


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Description

Alpine routes on this mountain are not very well defined and there are many variations. Most start at the bottom right side of the glacier. After crossing two areas of penitentes you move through a low angle area crossing a few crevasses until you reach a steep face. Actual climbing starts here with a first ice pitch that ends near a serac area. Second pitch traverses to the left on ice and snow and then some mixed climb. After protecting on slabs, make a 3rd degree exposed traverse on rock to gain the summit. From there there are many options to downclimb and rapp to the beginning of the route.

On years with a lot of snow this is mostly a snow walk. This description was of late season conditions on an average snow year, therefore more icy, and graded alpine D.

Location

From moraine camp walk 2-2h30 hours to the entrance of the glacier. Route starts at the bottom right of the glacier, around the penitentes area.

Protection

Bring 3-4 ice screws, 1-2 pickets, two 60 meter ropes, and some small and medium rock pro, cams and TCUs are best.

Photos

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