Avg: 2.9 from 11 votes
|Type:||Trad, 270 ft (82 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||Dave Montgomery, Mike Morin, 8/12|
|Page Views:||3,976 total · 41/month|
|Shared By:||Zach Wahrer on Jan 7, 2014|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.
P1 is 5.4 with good gear most of the way, although some of it can be spaced out a bit. I slung some chickenheads as well. The climbing is easy and fun. You are aiming for a pod about 120' up and right of where you started. The pod/ledge has a flaring crack in the back that makes for a great belay. There is another pod to the left of this one, so make sure you're at the right one. There is a bolt on a headwall about 15' up and right of the correct pod.
P2 is 5.5 with the crux being the headwall just off the belay. Clip the bolt on your way past, and run it out on the slab above. Good gear comes shortly after. There are lots of jugs and finger buckets up more fun slab. Belay at the top of the formation from a tree.
Walk to your right, paralleling the gully until you reach the saddle between Parkview and Ranch Hand. Rap with one 60m from a tree into the gully.