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Routes in Patina Wall

(Unknown) T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
870 Pump S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
A Call to Arms S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Borderline S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Full Auto S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Have Guns Will Travel S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
L1A1 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
M11 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Street Sweeper S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tec-9 S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 231 total · 4/month
Shared By: jeffblankman on Jan 6, 2014
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Climb the corner/buttress left of the bolts using face holds and a crack in the corner, stemming between the wall and the buttress. Relatively easy climbing through the bolts.

Clip the third bolt and make some balancey moves on small, tenuous holds (crux) to establish yourself in the crack--which is thin (fingers) at first, but widens quickly to hands.

Easier climbing in the somewhat flaring hand crack about 15-20 feet until a small bulge/roof (2nd crux). Hands thin out again at/above the roof for some awkward/tricky moves with decent feet.

Anchor is 10 feet above the roof.

Location

This route is far left on the Patina Wall--up the gully about 50 ft. from Tec-9. I do not believe it is in the San Diego County guidebook. It is on a hand-drawn topo of the wall (by Chris Hubbardclimbingtoposofsandiego.com), farthest route out left.

It starts in a right-facing corner just to the right of a pillar with some cool-looking hueco features at the base (see BETA photo). Look for three bolts that end at an undulating hand crack.

Protection

Three bolts to start, then large nuts and a small selection of cams from fingers to C4 #3 should do it. Most people will want tape, too. Open shuts anchor.

Photos

Jason Kim
Encinitas, CA
 
Jason Kim   Encinitas, CA
 
This route would be more fun if it saw more traffic. The rock is crumbly down low, and the entire climb is covered in exfoliating granules that made for some very spicy moves. The crack is harder than it looks, but takes gear well. Jan 15, 2014
dgill
San Diego, CA
  5.10b
dgill   San Diego, CA
  5.10b
Decent route that is harder than it appears from the ground. Start in the easy corner, do an awkward mantle to a ledge after clipping the second bolt, clip the third bolt and transition right into the crack using a combo of side pulls, flute pinching, and finger locks (crux). The crack is flared at times but offers decent jams and good gear. You'll rain pebbles on your belayer though. Cold shut anchors. Get on it! Dec 14, 2015
Ben May
San Diego, CA
Ben May   San Diego, CA
I think this route might be called Skate Away. Not sure. Nov 6, 2017

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