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FMR (F**k Me Raw)

WI4, Ice, Alpine, 1200 ft (364 m), 6 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 3.4 from 11 votes
FA: unknown
Utah > Wasatch Range > Southern Wasatch > Provo Canyon > Provo Canyon Ice > Upper Provo Falls

Description

Many, many steps of WI2-3 up the west drainage (bear right) of Avalanche Canyon places you at the base of a WI4 pillar/curtain. Atop the pillar, head climbers right on a steep forested slope to the final 200' WI4 headwall. The final headwall can be done in one or two pitches. Probably best done as one, but it is LONG.

THIS IS A MAJOR AVALANCHE PATH. CHECK CONDITIONS BEFORE CLIMBING OR APPROACHING.

Location

Once across the creek, however you got there, the trail heads up Avalanche Canyon from behind a concrete structure. The first pitch starts up a WI3 section with an amphitheater (w/ graffiti) on the left.

Descend from slings on trees and walk down/around some sections through the trees.

Protection

We took 8 screws plus some for anchors, tat for v-threads/trees, and two 60 m ropes for the descent.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Kirk Hilton strolling up the first curtain that gains access to the gully
[Hide Photo] Kirk Hilton strolling up the first curtain that gains access to the gully
Cruxin out on this techy WI4 (Wood Ice 4)
[Hide Photo] Cruxin out on this techy WI4 (Wood Ice 4)
Big Blue flexing in the alpenglow
[Hide Photo] Big Blue flexing in the alpenglow
Some pillar action whilst on the search for Big Blue
[Hide Photo] Some pillar action whilst on the search for Big Blue
Last Pitch of FMR. Also visible from road, ~60m pitch.
[Hide Photo] Last Pitch of FMR. Also visible from road, ~60m pitch.
50 foot pillar located halfway up route. Visible from road
[Hide Photo] 50 foot pillar located halfway up route. Visible from road

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
 
[Hide Comment] Is the final 200ft curtain also known as "Big Blue," or is that another area entirely? Jan 23, 2014
Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
 
[Hide Comment] Having just climbed this today, I can confirm that the big blue curtain seen form the road that I'd seen referenced as "Big Blue" is in fact that final pitch to FMR. Jan 5, 2015
Alec L
  WI4
[Hide Comment] You can bypass the first approach pitch by walking around to the east (up-canyon). Above the second waterfall, bear right, then you can either stay left to enter the amphitheater described above, or keep right and climb a steep pitch (WI4/5) in a tight canyon. Both lead up to Big Blue, AKA FMR. Jan 10, 2016