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FMR (F**k Me Raw)
WI4,
Ice, Alpine, 1200 ft (364 m), 6 pitches, Grade III,
Avg: 3.4 from 11
votes
FA: unknown
Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Southern Wasatch
> Provo Canyon
> Provo Canyon Ice
> Upper Provo Falls
Description
Many, many steps of WI2-3 up the west drainage (bear right) of Avalanche Canyon places you at the base of a WI4 pillar/curtain. Atop the pillar, head climbers right on a steep forested slope to the final 200' WI4 headwall. The final headwall can be done in one or two pitches. Probably best done as one, but it is LONG.
THIS IS A MAJOR AVALANCHE PATH. CHECK CONDITIONS BEFORE CLIMBING OR APPROACHING.
Location
Once across the creek, however you got there, the trail heads up Avalanche Canyon from behind a concrete structure. The first pitch starts up a WI3 section with an amphitheater (w/ graffiti) on the left.
Descend from slings on trees and walk down/around some sections through the trees.
Protection
We took 8 screws plus some for anchors, tat for v-threads/trees, and two 60 m ropes for the descent.
[Hide Photo] Kirk Hilton strolling up the first curtain that gains access to the gully
[Hide Photo] Cruxin out on this techy WI4 (Wood Ice 4)
[Hide Photo] Last Pitch of FMR. Also visible from road, ~60m pitch.
[Hide Photo] 50 foot pillar located halfway up route. Visible from road
Salt Lake City, UT
Salt Lake City, UT