Type: Ice, 1200 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,611 total · 27/month
Shared By: Mike Stearns on Jan 6, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Many, many steps of WI2-3 up the west drainage (bear right) of Avalanche Canyon places you at the base of a WI4 pillar/curtain. Atop the pillar, head climbers right on a steep forested slope to the final 200' WI4 headwall. The final headwall can be done in one or two pitches. Probably best done as one, but it is LONG.

THIS IS A MAJOR AVALANCHE PATH. CHECK CONDITIONS BEFORE CLIMBING OR APPROACHING.

Location

Once across the creek, however you got there, the trail heads up Avalanche Canyon from behind a concrete structure. The first pitch starts up a WI3 section with an amphitheater (w/ graffiti) on the left.

Descend from slings on trees and walk down/around some sections through the trees.

Protection

We took 8 screws plus some for anchors, tat for v-threads/trees, and two 60 m ropes for the descent.

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Photos

Last Pitch of FMR. Also visible from road, ~60m pitch.
Last Pitch of FMR. Also visible from road, ~60m…
 0
50 foot pillar located halfway up route. Visible from road
50 foot pillar located halfway up route. Visibl…
 0

3 Comments

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Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Is the final 200ft curtain also known as "Big Blue," or is that another area entirely? Jan 23, 2014
Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Having just climbed this today, I can confirm that the big blue curtain seen form the road that I'd seen referenced as "Big Blue" is in fact that final pitch to FMR. Jan 5, 2015
Alec LaLonde
  WI4
Alec LaLonde  
  WI4
You can bypass the first approach pitch by walking around to the east (up-canyon). Above the second waterfall, bear right, then you can either stay left to enter the amphitheater described above, or keep right and climb a steep pitch (WI4/5) in a tight canyon. Both lead up to Big Blue, AKA FMR. Jan 10, 2016