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Routes in Pillars area

Air China T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Born to Be Wild T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Bush Remedy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Clam Digger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Clam Digger "Direct" T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dancing with Dragons T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dawn Chimney, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Decepticon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ding Dong Goes To USA T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Don't Be A Pussy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Dungeons and Dragons T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Faraway Corner T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Funky Dan, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Men In Tights T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Morass T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Orange Crescent T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Over the Rainbow T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Screaming at the Faraway Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Screaming at the Moon (half) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Staircase of the Elves T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Swan Song T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yellow Brick Road Rage (YBRR, full route) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Zhoulei's Flake T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Griff
Page Views: 240 total, 5/month
Shared By: Nick Sullens on Jan 5, 2014
Admins: Bob Moseley, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Description

The definition of blue collar offwidth. Armbar and heel toe your way up this nasty just too small to squeeze corner offwidth. 3 green big bros would be ideal, the blue ones will go in a few spots but don't sit very well. Definitely R rated if you don't bring a few big bros (or a valley giant). Number 6's are tipped out/ no good after the first 15 feet. Fun?

Location

Hard to miss, the gaping corner crack just past Morass and the corridor formed by the giant boulder.

Protection

3 Green Big Bros, 2 #6's, single rack from .3 to 4 for the upper section. Jeans, long sleeves. 2 bolt anchor with a locker to lower off.

Photos

Drew Marshall
  5.10+
Drew Marshall  
  5.10+
First 25 feet or so (about 5.10a) need bigger than a #6
If you're comfortable running it out on this size you can leave the big bros behind. There's some bomber small gear before you leave the security of the offwidth - you'll still need at least a 5 and preferably a 6 for the upper section. Apr 11, 2016