Poultroonicus aka Moving Over Stone
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Routes in Burlap Buttress
|Arch Rival T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Arrow Place T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Children of the Sun T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|K-Day T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Millepede T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Poultroonicus aka Moving Over Stone T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Prism Corner, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Teabob T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Three K T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Unknown Mixed Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Wish Bone T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|Type:||Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Randall Grandstaff/Randy Marsh 1991|
|Page Views:||396 total, 8/month|
|Shared By:||Xavier Wasiak on Jan 5, 2014|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionI was always curious about this route because of the movie Moving Over Stone II. The route is not nearly as difficult as both the Brock and Handren books suggest and is more in line with what Randall rated it in the movie, 5.9.
Pitch 1 - Enjoyable typical RR edge pulling on mostly good rock leads to an old 3/8 bolt and continues up. Find your own way up as holds are plentiful. There is an old 2 bolt (1/4 inch)anchor at about 120 feet that I did not even see. There is also an old 3/8 inch bolt about 8 feet above this that I believe might have been used for rigging during the movie. Just left of this is another bolt that Randall drills and places during the movie that protects some fun face climbing. Above this is a two bolt anchor that appears to be in decent shape. Belay here. 10-, 140 feet.
Pitch 2 - Climb straight up finding your way through the face and many climbing options. You'll eventually end at a two bolt anchor (one 1/4 and one 3/8). The 3/8 appears to be in pretty good shape. Not a great anchor. 9/9+, 110 feet.
Two rappels will get you down the route with two 60's.
Fun to go back and see the movie and Randall climbing and placing the bolts.
LocationYou can find the route as the Handren guide suggests between Corn Flake and the arch on the right of the wall. You will eyeball a bolt 30 to 40 feet up the dark brown wall.
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