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Routes in Section 2

Cloudy Day S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lay Back Flakes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Old Man's Brow, The TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Old Man's Twin S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Original Route TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Original Route Direct S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Streaks, The S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sunny Day S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twins Left, The TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Twins Right, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Where's The Flake TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 585 total · 10/month
Shared By: Steve Lineberry on Jan 4, 2014
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

Climb up to a thin move out left and into some rotton rock. Pull a small buldge on the left side and then traverse right to reach a massive shark tooth jug hold. Move up into the final roof and figure out how to reach the lip. Once at the lip search around for a good incut out right to help pull over. Stand up on the ledge and continue up and left on a slanting flake to reach the top of the cliff just left of the anchors.

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Anchors

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Benandstuff
Winston-Salem, NC
Benandstuff   Winston-Salem, NC
Need beta for this. I tried to climb the rope line to the anchors (through the very middle of the "brow"), and got absolutely stuck at a couple of crimps 20 feet up, with no holds for 3-4 feet and very bad feet. After hauling past that, going through the roof+steep section felt very on-grade. Can anyone tell me if the actual climb goes off to one side or the other, then maybe comes back up into the "brow"? May 8, 2017
Steve Lineberry
Charlotte, NC
  5.10a
Steve Lineberry   Charlotte, NC  
  5.10a
I remember part of a hold breaking on me when I did this move a few years ago. So maybe more has broken off. Here are my accent notes from Dec. 2013 when I did it if it helps:

This route felt harder than expected about 1/4 of the way up. I did a long lock off left and found a hold I could work with. I then worked my feet up and got onto better holds. After pulling a small root I traversed right on ok holds to a huge pointy jug. I went up to the next roof and found a small but good incut hold to shake out on. Unfortunately as I was shaking out my LH this hold broke off. I got back on and started up. The top was really slopey but I found a good incut hold out right. From here I could pull up over. I then traversed over left to the slanting rail. One smear up and a RF onto the flake and I could lock off and reach the top. May 9, 2017
Andy Thorsell
Pineville, NC
Andy Thorsell   Pineville, NC
Seems like over the years many small pieces of rock have broken off of this route and it may be a good bit harder now than it used to. I used to go from the 2 crimps ~20 ft. up into a gaston out left of the rope line and get my left foot on a tiny edge to bump up to decent holds. That tiny edge for the left foot has since broken off and made that beta much more difficult. It looks like the options now are to either do a small dyno up from the crimps to a bad right hand hold up high and quickly move up to better holds, or move right from the crimps to some side pulls and work your way up. Feb 19, 2018

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