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Routes in Section 2

Cloudy Day S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lay Back Flakes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Old Man's Brow, The TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Old Man's Twin S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Original Route TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Original Route Direct S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Streaks , The S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sunny Day S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twins Left, The TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Twins Right, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Where's The Flake TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 526 total, 11/month
Shared By: Steve Lineberry on Jan 4, 2014
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

Climb up to a thin move out left and into some rotton rock. Pull a small buldge on the left side and then traverse right to reach a massive shark tooth jug hold. Move up into the final roof and figure out how to reach the lip. Once at the lip search around for a good incut out right to help pull over. Stand up on the ledge and continue up and left on a slanting flake to reach the top of the cliff just left of the anchors.

Protection

Anchors

Photos

Steve Lineberry
Charlotte, NC
 
Steve Lineberry   Charlotte, NC  
 
I remember part of a hold breaking on me when I did this move a few years ago. So maybe more has broken off. Here are my accent notes from Dec. 2013 when I did it if it helps:

This route felt harder than expected about 1/4 of the way up. I did a long lock off left and found a hold I could work with. I then worked my feet up and got onto better holds. After pulling a small root I traversed right on ok holds to a huge pointy jug. I went up to the next roof and found a small but good incut hold to shake out on. Unfortunately as I was shaking out my LH this hold broke off. I got back on and started up. The top was really slopey but I found a good incut hold out right. From here I could pull up over. I then traversed over left to the slanting rail. One smear up and a RF onto the flake and I could lock off and reach the top. May 9, 2017
Benandstuff
Winston-Salem, NC
Benandstuff   Winston-Salem, NC
Need beta for this. I tried to climb the rope line to the anchors (through the very middle of the "brow"), and got absolutely stuck at a couple of crimps 20 feet up, with no holds for 3-4 feet and very bad feet. After hauling past that, going through the roof+steep section felt very on-grade. Can anyone tell me if the actual climb goes off to one side or the other, then maybe comes back up into the "brow"? May 8, 2017