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Routes in North Mountain

Nowhere To Run T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spider, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wish You Were Here T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 700 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: E.C. Joe, Barry Fowlie, Bill McConachie May 1986
Page Views: 1,332 total, 28/month
Shared By: limpingcrab on Jan 2, 2014
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Always check road conditions and peregrine closures Details

Description

Really fun climb up six pitches with all sizes of cracks. Feels sand bagged on the easier pitches because they require many techniques but the grades are fair.

P1: Short, funky but fun corner up to a ledge with a tree.

P2: Wonder up next to or in a chimney until it pinches to fingers and ends at a white triangle with webbing on it.

P3: Splitter crack ranging from squeeze to fingers up to a tree.

P4: Kind of confusing. Trend up and right to a crack, then back left, then up and right again to a right facing corner, then up to a pretty big tree.

P5: Right curving open book/corner into arching finger crack. Ends at two OLD bolts. Crux

P6: Up and left a bit to meet with and finish on the awesome splitter you can see from the road. End at the two OLD rap bolts.

Descend with one 70m or two 60m ropes. Two old bolted anchors and trees/blocks for the rest. Bring webbing.

Location

After crossing the river before Zumwalt Meadow take the dirt road west along the north side of the river to the NPS stables and park on the side of the road (you can see the splitter cracks of the upper pitches from here). The cliff is divided by a large gully, scramble up talus and large blocks to the buttress on the right side of the gully. Begin in a corner with a wide crack and tree at the top (see pictures)

Protection

A few small cams. At least triples from 1-3". One each 4, 5 and 6".
The last pitch CAN be rappeled with a single 70M, just be careful. With rope stretch we were able to clip the anchors with knotted rope ends at the belay device...

Fabulous route. P3, 5, & 6 are all **** classic. May 23, 2017
Brian Prince
morro bay, ca
 
Brian Prince   morro bay, ca
 
Top rap anchors have been replaced thanks to ASCA. Take some cord for the rest of the raps. Not sure if the last pitch could be rapped with a 70m..

To find it. Park near the stables (was told we can't park at the stables) and hike to the buttress. Once you get to the toe, head up and left just a bit and then cut back right and scramble up to the dirty first pitch. 10-15 min

On the confusing 4th pitch, it's obvious off the belay but it gets... confusing and/or steep and chossy

No need for 6 x #1's and whatever else the guide recommends. Doubles to #2 is fine. 1 extra .75 and #1 will be nice though (so 3X on those). Singles #3,4,5,6 was nice but not totally necessary. Placed them mostly because I had 'em. If anything, bring a 6 for the 3rd pitch.

Good route, but a little chossy down low. Crux pitch is awesome. First half of it reminded me of New Dimensions. Then it turns into a beautiful fingers/off-fingers splitter. Last pitch is cherry on top, sweetness. Apr 27, 2016