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What Horn
5.9+ PG13,
Sport, 70 ft (21 m),
Avg: 2.4 from 10
votes
FA: Poedke/Barton
California
> Sierra Eastside
> Bishop Area
> Pine Creek Canyon
> Crack of Noon Buttress
Description
Start in a shallow, right facing crack/corner a few feet up the hill to the right of 'Crack of Noon.' Continue up, trending right past an undercling on big holds to a bolt. Pass a large hole, clip another bolt, and mantle on a prominent shelf/ledge. Walk left on the shelf until it thins out, then move over the lip (crux) and follow three bolts on positive edges to mussy hook anchors. Note that this is the LEFT hand route, not the one that is closest to the mantle.
Imho the best route on the cliff. Fun, fun, fun! Do note that a fall from the shelf, before clipping the 3rd bolt, would be quite nasty.
Location
See Crack of Noon Buttress topo picture.
Protection
5 bolts, it is possible to protect the lower crack/corner with a #1 Camalot and the undercling pocket with med. offset cams.
Lander, WY
Sunny Slopes + Berkeley, CA
use your own judgement as to what is a good placement (or not) for you... Mar 29, 2021
Lander, WY