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What Horn

5.9+ PG13, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 2.4 from 10 votes
FA: Poedke/Barton
California > Sierra Eastside > Bishop Area > Pine Creek Canyon > Crack of Noon Buttress

Description

Start in a shallow, right facing crack/corner a few feet up the hill to the right of 'Crack of Noon.' Continue up, trending right past an undercling on big holds to a bolt. Pass a large hole, clip another bolt, and mantle on a prominent shelf/ledge. Walk left on the shelf until it thins out, then move over the lip (crux) and follow three bolts on positive edges to mussy hook anchors. Note that this is the LEFT hand route, not the one that is closest to the mantle.

Imho the best route on the cliff. Fun, fun, fun! Do note that a fall from the shelf, before clipping the 3rd bolt, would be quite nasty.

Location

See Crack of Noon Buttress topo picture.

Protection

5 bolts, it is possible to protect the lower crack/corner with a #1 Camalot and the undercling pocket with med. offset cams.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Matt Miccioli
Lander, WY
  5.10a PG13
[Hide Comment] Fun moves, but I feel the location of the first bolt detracts from the quality of the route. The possible placement in the undercling hole to protect getting to the first clipping stance is very thin and hollow sounding. Mar 29, 2021
old5ten
Sunny Slopes + Berkeley, CA
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] @matt - just a quick note regarding your comment - the protection section of the route reads ' it is POSSIBLE to protect the lower crack/corner with a #1 Camalot and the undercling pocket with med. offset cams' - this does NOT make it a SUGGESTED placement!

use your own judgement as to what is a good placement (or not) for you... Mar 29, 2021
Matt Miccioli
Lander, WY
  5.10a PG13
[Hide Comment] Yeah, I used my own judgment and skipped the placement and was just fine, but I figured someone near their limit might prefer more information rather than less when making their own decision. A more cautious climber could opt to stick clip or try a different line at the crag. I'll edit my first comment for the sake of semantics. Mar 29, 2021