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Routes in Crack of Noon Buttress

Come Around Sundown S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Crack of Noon T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Em Ion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Everything is Karate S 5.14c/d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7b
Heady Noon T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
High Noon T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
OW - That Bites S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rewritten T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ripples Revisited T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Short but Stout S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Stand Up and Deliver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
What Horn S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Poedke/Barton
Page Views: 143 total, 3/month
Shared By: old5ten on Jan 2, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Start in a shallow, right facing crack/corner a few feet up the hill to the right of 'Crack of Noon.' Continue up, trending right past an undercling on big holds to a bolt. Pass a large hole, clip another bolt, and mantle on a prominent shelf/ledge. Walk left on the shelf until it thins out, then move over the lip (crux) and follow three bolts on positive edges to mussy hook anchors. Note that this is the LEFT hand route, not the one that is closest to the mantle.

Imho the best route on the cliff. Fun, fun, fun! Do note that a fall from the shelf, before clipping the 3rd bolt, would be quite nasty.

Location

See Crack of Noon Buttress topo picture.

Protection

5 bolts, it is possible to protect the lower crack/corner with a #1 Camalot and the undercling pocket with med. offset cams.

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