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Crack of Noon

5.9+ PG13, Trad, 70 ft,  Avg: 2.6 from 5 votes
FA: Barton/Poedke
California > Sierra Eastside > Bishop Area > Pine Creek Canyon > Crack of Noon Buttress

Description

This is the prominent, straight crack line on the left side of the buttress. Start on talus/dirt around the corner to the left and a few feet up the hill, traverse right into the thin crack/seam on big holds, then continue up. In a few sections it is easier to face climb to the left.

This is a fine route, but requires solid nut skills and has ugly decking potential (PG-13/R).

The upper third of the climb has two variations to the left.

Protection

Several small nuts (incl. brass) and small cams for the bottom half, small to medium cams above. Mussy hook anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Follow the most prominent crack to the right of the arete and "everything is karate".
[Hide Photo] Follow the most prominent crack to the right of the arete and "everything is karate".