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Routes in Oak Tree Junction

Jam Gets On To Fingers T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 281 total · 6/month
Shared By: Justin Johnsen on Jan 2, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Stem, lieback and/or face climb up a V-shaped pair of flakes widening as you make your way up to a big horizontal crack going left. Beyond here, the climbing gets thinner and serious as the crack thins to fingertips, then peters out entirely.

Cottrell calls it 5.10+ if you stay entirely right of the crack, or 5.10 otherwise. I called the route 5.10c here to start with.

Location

The obvious path of least resistance of features up the Oak Tree Junction wall, on the climber's left of the oak tree itself. Rap down or walk off to the left (west).

Protection

Good protection until the horizontal cave, then not so good above that (PG? the fingertip crack's rock quality is not so good but I haven't tried leading this one).

A pair of bolted chains on top makes this easy to toprope.

Photos

Tim Camuti
Placerville, CA
  5.10 R
Tim Camuti   Placerville, CA
  5.10 R
Great toprope, GREAT climb, very gymnastic.
Watch for bees in the crack.
Very unsafe lead- no gear in the top 20 feet. Please setup a toprope by walking left (downstream) to get to the top of the route. Jul 3, 2017

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