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Routes in Shawnee Shelter

Noo-Tha S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tecumseh's Curse S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Waterfall Ballet S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Brad Combs 2009
Page Views: 181 total · 3/month
Shared By: Phil Ippe on Jan 1, 2014
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

Good steep climb, very high with a lot of endurance involved. The crux would be the next few moves after the hueco.

Location

Just left of Waterfall Ballet

Protection

10 bolts

Photos

Franck Vee
  5.11d
Franck Vee  
  5.11d
I'm sad to drop a bomb on that route - but I think it is rather dangerous. There's a HUGE midway flake that sounds pretty hollow. Actually the midway hollow flake is composed of multiple also hollow-sounding bits. As usual, difficult to tell how fragile or not it really is... and it's not just that the huge flake sounds hollow - there are bits & pieces around that area that could come done, say football-size stuff. You have to use it to - there's no real way around it. You need to traverse it right to left no matter what, and that will involve a certain amount of laybacking on it...

That being said, it's an amazing route and deserves imo the 4 stars in the book, maybe 5. Really adventurous feeling to it, with cool moves. Better be up to speed with your dynos if you want to pull of the "post-hueco surprise". I think it's overall a fair bit harder than 11c - solid lock-offs and couple long reaches in a solid overhang, and the dyno (not a full dyno but feet's off dynamic move) isn't easy - the hand rail for the launch isn't that good and the feet are odly placed (unless you're, say, about 6' tall). Oct 18, 2017

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