Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Brad Combs 2009
Page Views: 197 total · 3/month
Shared By: Phil Ippe on Jan 1, 2014
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route

7 Opinions

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Good steep climb, very high with a lot of endurance involved. The crux would be the next few moves after the hueco.


Just left of Waterfall Ballet


10 bolts


Franck Vee
Franck Vee  
I'm sad to drop a bomb on that route - but I think it is rather dangerous. There's a HUGE midway flake that sounds pretty hollow. Actually the midway hollow flake is composed of multiple also hollow-sounding bits. As usual, difficult to tell how fragile or not it really is... and it's not just that the huge flake sounds hollow - there are bits & pieces around that area that could come done, say football-size stuff. You have to use it to - there's no real way around it. You need to traverse it right to left no matter what, and that will involve a certain amount of laybacking on it...

That being said, it's an amazing route and deserves imo the 4 stars in the book, maybe 5. Really adventurous feeling to it, with cool moves. Better be up to speed with your dynos if you want to pull of the "post-hueco surprise". I think it's overall a fair bit harder than 11c - solid lock-offs and couple long reaches in a solid overhang, and the dyno (not a full dyno but feet's off dynamic move) isn't easy - the hand rail for the launch isn't that good and the feet are odly placed (unless you're, say, about 6' tall). Oct 18, 2017