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Poquito Bandito

5.11+, Trad, 65 ft (20 m),  Avg: 3 from 3 votes
FA: J.Snyder
Arizona > Northern Arizona > Sedona Area > Village of Oak… > Oak Creek Spire… > Oak Creek Spire

Description

Poquito Bandito is a aesthetic and steep mixed route that sits in the center sun-vortex of Oak Creek Spire's South Face. Reminiscent of Indian Creek with trademark characteristics of Sedona, this short but fierce pitch will try and steal the send.

Start up jumbled terrain, clean your shoes and start up steep fingers to a short rest. Fire the tips boulder problem to a ledge. Switch gears and power tech-mantle your way through 3 bolts to the anchor.

Please be courteous to dry rock and the current location of requisite features...

Location

Approach as you would for Oak Creek Spire. Poquito Bandito sits center of the sunny South Face above large boulders in a scree field. There is a faint trail that leads up the S.East slick rock ridge towards the original rappels of O.C.S.

Protection

Small Rack:
C4 #1
C4 .4 x 2
C4 .3 x 2
3 bolts
2 bolt anchor

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Poquito Bandito<br>
Photos: tamarahastie.wordpress.com/
[Hide Photo] Poquito Bandito Photos: tamarahastie.wordpress.com/
Poquito Bandito
[Hide Photo] Poquito Bandito
J.Snyder on FA of Poquito Bandito
[Hide Photo] J.Snyder on FA of Poquito Bandito
Kyle leading Poquito Bandito (11+); with Nick on belay
[Hide Photo] Kyle leading Poquito Bandito (11+); with Nick on belay
Chaco and the Bandit
[Hide Photo] Chaco and the Bandit
Poquito Bandito
[Hide Photo] Poquito Bandito
Turtle Power
[Hide Photo] Turtle Power
Uppers
[Hide Photo] Uppers
Through the boulder problem
[Hide Photo] Through the boulder problem
Steep fingers
[Hide Photo] Steep fingers
Steep tips
[Hide Photo] Steep tips

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tim Heid
AZ
 
[Hide Comment] Fun route! Man, that tips section is really hard! Didn't get it clean - so can't officially rate it, but felt a lot harder than 11+!

Upper bolted section was rad too! Although the medium sized block right before moving over the to the 3rd bolt on the arete seemed a bit loose. Feb 8, 2016
Jeffrey Snyder
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11+
[Hide Comment] Awesome work! I agree depending on your tip size and your reach those moves are variable and can be a little nasty. The blocks jugs up top do have a bit of a wobble but were tested with my strongest of punches. Im sure Sedona will swallow them eventually and naturally when the entire tower falls Southward... so I suppose pull down not out! Feb 8, 2016
Jeffrey Snyder
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11+
[Hide Comment] Laura said she dyno'd?! Dyno bonus points for sure Mar 3, 2016
Nick Schlichtman
Golden, CO
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Dyno beta for the win. That last tips jam just insecure/painful enough to prevent establishing my feet much higher. However, couldn't clean it up enough on my second go to stick it for a send. Fun route. Feb 5, 2017