Type: Sport
FA: Duane Lyons
Page Views: 578 total · 8/month
Shared By: Salamanizer suchoski on Dec 29, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Some optional gear at the start leads to bolts that protect an awkward arching crack. A strange route to be sure.
Start in the left leaning fist crack (harder if you have small fists) until you .limb past the offwidth that shoots straight up, Get some gear, and work around the left and up into the depths of the chimney.
You can utilize the bolts which are outside the chimney but they kinda get in your way, best to just bring a couple pieces to protect the chimney.

The gear is good inside the chimney, the mental crux is probably getting into the chimney, particularly with the bolt being right in your face, but the entry can be protected by a good #3 and maybe a wonky #6.

Location

On the West side of the Left Over Bun.

Protection

Bolts with a couple optional wide pieces for the start.
Or if climbing on gear and skipping the awkward bolts, BD Cams, Single #2 to #6.
Bolts with rappel rings at the top or walk off.

Photos