Type: Sport
FA: Duane Lyons
Page Views: 1,079 total · 10/month
Shared By: Salamanizer Ski on Dec 29, 2013
Admins: Lurker -, Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Be aware of Caldor Fire closures - Up to date info here: fs.usda.gov/eldorado/ Details


Some optional gear at the start leads to bolts that protect an awkward arching crack. A strange route to be sure.
Start in the left leaning fist crack (harder if you have small fists) until you .limb past the offwidth that shoots straight up, Get some gear, and work around the left and up into the depths of the chimney.
You can utilize the bolts which are outside the chimney but they kinda get in your way, best to just bring a couple pieces to protect the chimney.

The gear is good inside the chimney, the mental crux is probably getting into the chimney, particularly with the bolt being right in your face, but the entry can be protected by a good #3 and maybe a wonky #6.


On the West side of the Left Over Bun.


Bolts with a couple optional wide pieces for the start.
Or if climbing on gear and skipping the awkward bolts, BD Cams, Single #2 to #6.
Bolts with rappel rings at the top or walk off.


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