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Routes in Lower Tier

General Lee, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hidden-mite S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hidden-mite short S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hiddenite Delite T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Lightning Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rotten Ramp S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Safety Ledge S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Snake Charmer S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Somebody open my Dew S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Spike Left S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Steve Pope and Terry Wright
Page Views: 992 total, 21/month
Shared By: Emil Briggs on Dec 29, 2013
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Description

Nice route that goes up very solid rock. Make some easy moves to reach a stance to the left of a sharp upward pointing flake. Move left and get established under a small bulge/roof. Clip bolts below the bulge and one bolt above it (might be reachy for some). Pulling over the bulge is the crux. Head up the steep slab (10+/11a) to a small ledge with double bolt anchors. Admire the overhanging finger crack extension (Bullistics 5.10+/5.11a) directly above you.

Location

Located on the right side of the main face on a section of steep slab near the point where the the face starts curving around. To the left is the obvious line of Lightning Bolt Crack. There are two bolted routes that head up the slab. This is the leftmost line.

Protection

Bolts to double ring anchors.

Photos

Emil Briggs  
 
Abel you might be right. The overlap is hard for me to judge. Pulling directly over it is very hard (at least for me) but there may be a better sequence.

Edit: After getting on this again and seeing other members of our party give it a go it looks to me like it's height dependent. For taller climbers the slab may be the hardest part and 11a is about right. For shorter folks the overlap is the crux and will probably feel harder than 11a. Jan 8, 2014
Abel Jones
Bishop, ca
  5.11-
Abel Jones   Bishop, ca
  5.11-
Pretty fun with extension. I think this is 11-... based a cold day ascent and on the old hand drawn guide by steve pope. The extension felt 10c-ish. Pretty good although the ledge below the extension was something to consider. Jan 7, 2014