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Castle Magic
5.9+,
Sport, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches,
Avg: 3.4 from 23
votes
FA: k.Cordner, D. Olson
California
> Sierra Eastside
> Bishop Area
> Owens River Gorge
> Lower Gorge
> Penstock Rock
Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!!
Details
Due to liability concerns, bridges are being removed in the Owens River Gorge at the request of LADWP. The Bishop Area Climbers Coalition and the Access Fund are currently in negotiations with LADWP to get this issue resolved. In the meantime, please continue to be good land stewards by respecting these bridge closures and finding alternate crossing points until this issue is resolved.
1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.
Description
start up a recessed corner/crack system past 3 bolts and an easy blocky stretch to chain anchors.5.9. The upper face pitch, 5.9, is 12 bolts. After the crux there's easy but steep climbing past some beautifully sculpted natural pockets.
Location
right of "Funk Cole Patina"
Protection
p1. 3 bolts p2. 12 bolts.
Oakhurst, CA