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Routes in Section 2

Cloudy Day S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lay Back Flakes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Old Man's Brow, The TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Old Man's Twin S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Original Route TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Original Route Direct S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Streaks , The S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sunny Day S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twins Left, The TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Twins Right, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Where's The Flake TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,352 total · 26/month
Shared By: Steve Lineberry on Dec 29, 2013
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


31 Opinions

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Description

Work your way up to a small corner and then through easier ground to a slightly steeper section. Stay left of the bolts and stand up to gain easier ground and the shuts.

Protection

5 bolts and shuts

Photos

Johnny O
Wilkesboro, NC
  5.8
Johnny O   Wilkesboro, NC
  5.8
This is another route that doesn't seem to be getting the love that it deserves but it is a super fun route nonetheless. It was meant to be exciting with pro only where it is needed so some people may think it is slightly runout. However, if you are adventurous and don't need climbing wall type holds then this is the route for you. You do need to be solid at the grade if attempting to lead. There are two ways to climb from the second bolt. There was an additional corner that came completely loose and had to be removed. That left the slick, mica filled corner that is currently there. Now, the easier way to climb is right of the bolt and away from the corner. For a 5.9 version, climb straight up the corner to the ledge under the third bolt. After clipping the third bolt, transition out left onto the face and into a steeper section. There are several nice hidden holds to help reach the fourth bolt. Reach to the right above the fourth bolt and climb straight up towards the rings.

When I originally bolted the route, the inner corner was still intact and it was easy to climb straight up at the 2nd bolt. After deciding to remove it, I noticed that people were going for the easy terrain to the right, so rather than fight it, that became the way. I still prefer staying just left of the bolt and following the corner up. It is probably more of a 5.9- move at best. To the right is quite easy. You should also transition completely out to the left after clipping the third bolt. Do not step over to where the bolt is at. That makes the route easier. The route actually went further left originally and the large hold near the fourth bolt was not used at all. It was finished with mostly slopers and very small holds. Mar 16, 2014
Jason Hassing
  5.8
Jason Hassing  
  5.8
Did the straight up variation and it felt a little stiff and height dependant for a 5.8. I'm 6' and it wasn't a problem for me, but my son who is 5'6" decided to take the right side heading into the 2nd bolt which does not require a long reach. Jul 28, 2014
Benandstuff
Winston-Salem, NC
 
Benandstuff   Winston-Salem, NC
 
Straight up using the corner is highly height-dependent. If you are not tall, be prepared for some foot-smearing in the corner. Or step right, which is probably truer to the grade at this point. Aug 31, 2015
Johnny O
Wilkesboro, NC
  5.8
Johnny O   Wilkesboro, NC
  5.8
There were a few modifications made to the bolt line since the original holds at the second bolt have been gone for awhile. The second bolt has been moved to make it easier to clip from the right and another bolt has been added since many people complained about the distance between the second and third bolts. I personally felt the climbing was too easy to matter and will not clip the bolt but it is there for those that need it. Oct 26, 2016
Steve Lineberry
Charlotte, NC
 
Steve Lineberry   Charlotte, NC  
 
Thanks Johnny, so to confirm, it's 5 bolts now instead of 4? I'll update the info above. Oct 28, 2016

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