Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 253 total · 4/month
Shared By: Marta Reece on Dec 29, 2013
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Power drilling is prohibited in the Organ Mountains Wilderness. Details


Pitch 1, 5.5 70ft. Layback the starting boulder problem with excellent pro placement opportunity. Once on the ledge above, scramble to the brushy squeeze chimney and setup a belay just below it.

Pitch 2, 5.8 50ft. From the base of the chimney, hop over the bulge to the right. Scramble through bushes and jam the finger/hand crack between the boulders to another brushy ledge where you turn sharply left. On your right will be a split boulder (the top of the split is marked blue in the photo). Walk under this boulder and climb onto and over a bush at its end, then head up.

The fist crack, (5.9, marked red in the photo) is the crux. To avoid the start of the crack, you may squeeze into the gap in the split boulder and gain a small stand on top of the leaning piece from which scary but protectable step will gain the upper portion of the fist crack, 5.8. If your hands are small, however, it will be an off-width for you, and may feel rather more difficult. At the top of the crack/boulder traverse right and barge through the shrubbery to find a comfortable belay spot.

4th class scramble up the boulders of the ridge line will take you to the summit.


Approach via the route for Little Squaretop. Hike/scramble approximately halfway up the gully between Little Squaretop and Little Squaretop Massif. 100 meters before the saddle boulder, look for the broken crack systems on your right heading up the Massif. The route begins at the northern end of this system, before the vegetation disappears.

Descent. From the peak, head west along the ridge toward Little Squaretop. At the low point of the ridge, before reaching towering boulders at its end, scramble to the right then cross back to the left/west under the boulders you just left and continue down toward Little Squaretop to find the rap station. A 25-30m rap will deposit you on top of the large boulder between Little Squaretop and the Massif ready to go to Little Squaretop. If you are headed down the gully, stay on rappel and hop off the boulder to get into it.


Small rack.