Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Blue Sky Wall

Arching Out T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bright Eyes T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Buffalo Brothers S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Closer to the Sun T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Open Air T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ramp S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Type: Trad, Sport, 275 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,027 total, 21/month
Shared By: bspiewak on Dec 28, 2013
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


7 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

This route climbs the highest up the Wedge, and is the easiest of the few that actually top out the formation.

Approach is via Arching Out or the Ramp (into Arching Out).
It is the first route right of Buffalo Brothers .
See also this photo.

Pitch 1. Optional 1/2" cam, sling tie off, bolts. 140' 5.8. Off the two bolt belay climb back into the corner. Twenty feet above the belay where the corner becomes a roof, look for the bolt out left that draws you onto the Blue Sky Wall. Tie off a chicken head above, and follow bolts the rest of the way to a rap anchor at 90', 5.6 to here. The route continues out right into steeper 5.8 terrain with a nice flat ledge about 50' above the 90' anchor. Link the 90' and 50' sections to take advantage of the nice ledge. Two bolt belay on the ledge.

Pitch 2. Bolts only, 130'. 5.5. Off the ledge, bolts out right lead past a bolted rap anchor about 40' above the ledge. Skip these and continue to the bolted anchor atop the formation.

Descent: Rap the route. During the second rap skip the ledge anchor and continue to the station that was 90' up the first pitch.
OR
Walk off to the west down the West Ledges descent.


Protection

Optional 1/2" cam off the belay, and a sling to tie off a knob inbetween the first and second bolt, otherwise all bolted.

Photos

BJ Cook
San Diego, California
 
BJ Cook   San Diego, California
 
Pitch 1 - Solid, full-featured rock. Lots of holds fit for all sizes of climbers. The fun, cruxy sections comes as you approach the arete, which is flat and requires some good feet placement. My favorite section.

Pitch 2 - Fairly easy all the way up, almost like a ladder. The last little bulge to top out requires a high right foot, then walk up to anchors and call it a day.

Rope Length Note: On 2nd pitch, when you're at belay anchors just under the arete, you can make it to the final set of belay anchors to top out with a 60m rope. My partner told me 20 ft of rope and I was able to setup belay and still have about 8-10 ft of rope left, then he started climbing.

Amazing view from up here and worth the 500 ft+ of climbing. Dec 22, 2014
steve H17
San Diego Ca.
steve H17   San Diego Ca.
did this on few weeks back, had intended to do buffalo brothers, but with a little confusion from the guide book missed it and ended up here, grade was the same so no harm still very much enjoyed the climb Apr 23, 2014