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Routes in Checkered Demon

Checkered Demon T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b AI3 Steep Snow
Kindergarten Gully T AI2 Easy Snow
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Type: Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 1200 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: John Fischer and Doug Robinson - October 1970
Page Views: 1,115 total · 20/month
Shared By: Preston Rhea on Dec 27, 2013
Admins: Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description [Suggest Change]

Checkered Demon is one of the infamous Sierra ice climbs, much akin to Ice Nine in the fact everyone has heard about it and not many people know where it even is, let alone have climbed it. It is a quality climb that is rarely in good ice climbing shape.

The route starts with a couple pitches of 45 degree snow/ice as the couloir steadily narrows and steepens. Near the top of the couloir, the couloir narrows down to three feet and steepens to about 55 degrees. From the start of narrows, a pitch or two of mixed climbing (5.6) leads to the top.

Location [Suggest Change]

A super obvious and beautiful arete separates two couloirs. The couloir to the right is Checkered Demon.

Despite the looks, apparently this couloir has been skied, so early season that could be an option for the brave. Another early season option is to ski or downclimb Kindergarten Gully. Otherwise, take the sandy slopes south of the couloir, contouring around the peak to the east and eventually the northeast back to where you parked.

Protection [Suggest Change]

A standard rack of ice screws (or snow pickets in early season) and a small alpine rock rack.

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