Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Dickfour

Original Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A2+
Type: Trad, Aid, 200 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett, Brad Bonds, Nov. 1998
Page Views: 524 total, 11/month
Shared By: Ben Kiessel on Dec 27, 2013
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Raptor Closures 2017: Check status and details at: nps.gov/arch/planyourvisit/… -Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions mountainproject.com/v/utah/… in Arches National Park Details
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Pitch 1:
There are multiple ways to access 'Dick For'. 'Day of the Eagle' seems to be the most aesthetic option. You can also hike up the canyon to the left of 'Day of the Eagle' and avoid a pitch one all together. Whatever you end up doing the goal is to get to the crack off the bench on the north side of the tower. Once on the bench, bolts should be visible high on the tower.

Pitch 2:
Step across a 3' wide 30' deep chimney to access the crack. Climb this crack up and left past some broken sections. Make and awkward move up and right to access a big sloping ledge. Traverse the ledge right to more crack and bolts above.

Descent:
One double rope rappel puts you on the ground.

Protection

This list of pro is for the summit pitch only as there are multiple ways to approach the base of this pitch.

Stoppers
Offsets
Double set of cams from black alien to #1 camalot
One #2 and #3 camalot
Assortment of pins including baby angles, lost arrows, peakers, and blades.
Ben Kiessel  
 
Thanks for the correction. Jan 31, 2014
...style of British cuisine....?

No, not quite right. Old construction site command, directed at the newest laborer: "Hey, fetch me a dickfour!" followed by a puzzled look and the inevitable query.....

Too bad Bjornstad got it wrong, so it ended up written wrong here, so I have to laboriously explain the joke so the joke loses any humor it may have once had.... Jan 4, 2014
Matt, I think its a style of British cuisine, commonly served at lunchtime. Dec 30, 2013
Crusher, good to know that it is actually named "Dickfour" rather than "Dick For." However, where does the name come from. I've wondered for years since I first saw the spire while climbing 143 in 2006. Some history may be interesting, and even better, to quite our friend B. Grasse who excessively asks 'Whats a Dick for?!"

Thanks for the reply, Matt Dec 30, 2013
Nice write up, Ben!

One thing, the name of the tower is, of course, supposed to be Dickfour, one word. Dec 30, 2013