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Routes in 5. Three Bears Wall

Baby Bear TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Bear Claw T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Goldilocks T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Papa Bear T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Risky Bear T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 95 ft
FA: Jonah Klein
Page Views: 1,495 total, 31/month
Shared By: Jonah Klein on Dec 22, 2013 with updates
Admins: SMarsh

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

Surface on the start of the route is great practice for smears, and palming, the debris and foliage was not to bad on this wall. Moss on the face of some areas can contribute to bad foot smears. This particular route was fun because it was risky due to no protection for first 25 feet or so. *Dont skip the last Boulder at the top, best part* you can finish by clearing left at top before final 15 feet, but the boulder adds to elevation of climb and requires tricky moves. Also note, the back tree at top of route is not a single rope Rappel and retrieval. I made this mistake. Being that i solo climb and need a double length to clear my route, I got stuck and had to self rescue on my protected line off a small tree in the middle of the route. YAY. The rappel tree is to the left of the route.

Location

Start at the outer most right corner of 3 bears. You can see tower climb to your right. Start as far right as you can get your first handhold. Rappel down.

Protection

The first 40 feet of the route only has one possible placement for protection that i could find for a Nut, after that cams and Nuts. There is a Rappel sling ring at the top around a tree

Photos

jon crefeld  
 
There is some nice rock on the route, but I think routes earn stars based on 1) How aesthetic the line is, is it easy to follow? Is there one way we can all agree that defines the route 2) Is the route free of loose rock and foliage 3) Is the route consistent in difficulty and quality. On that standard this route wanders, you'll find yourself in Class III terrain, amongst trees and brush and the protection at the bottom is questionable. Apr 8, 2014