Voldemort and the Manwich
Avg: 1 from 3 votes
Routes in Tag Crag
|Detonate Flake, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Voldemort and the Manwich T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Type:||Trad, 30 ft|
|Page Views:||289 total, 6/month|
|Shared By:||Aaron W on Dec 21, 2013|
|Admins:||Marcus Floyd, Dave Hug|
DescriptionFun route with spaced and marginal protection which involves surmounting two small roofs. Starts underneath the pocket/slit and ends standing on top of the second roof. Rated PG13 for ground fall potential between 1st and 2nd pro placements as well as somewhat tricky gear. A bat might live in that pocket so don't stick you're fingers in there.
The route is dirty and may have some loose rock on it as well. With time it will clean up well. Such is Cliff Drive's finestone.
ProtectionThere are NO ANCHORS for this climb. To descend the best option is to wade through the brush and pre-place webbing on a tree just up and right of the route. Topping out on that loose dirt is unwise. I placed a small cam and a stopper in the pocket/slit, a 1.5 tricam right under the first roof as well as a hand-sized cam just right of the roof on flaring "slimestone". Next piece of pro is a nut below the second roof.
Helmet for belayer and leader highly recommended.