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Routes in Tag Crag

Detonate Flake, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Voldemort and the Manwich T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: Aaron Wilson
Page Views: 289 total, 6/month
Shared By: Aaron W on Dec 21, 2013
Admins: Marcus Floyd, Dave Hug

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Description

Fun route with spaced and marginal protection which involves surmounting two small roofs. Starts underneath the pocket/slit and ends standing on top of the second roof. Rated PG13 for ground fall potential between 1st and 2nd pro placements as well as somewhat tricky gear. A bat might live in that pocket so don't stick you're fingers in there.

The route is dirty and may have some loose rock on it as well. With time it will clean up well. Such is Cliff Drive's finestone.

Location

20ft left of the Detonate Flake. Start right beneath the pocket/slit.

Protection

There are NO ANCHORS for this climb. To descend the best option is to wade through the brush and pre-place webbing on a tree just up and right of the route. Topping out on that loose dirt is unwise. I placed a small cam and a stopper in the pocket/slit, a 1.5 tricam right under the first roof as well as a hand-sized cam just right of the roof on flaring "slimestone". Next piece of pro is a nut below the second roof.
Helmet for belayer and leader highly recommended.

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