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Uranus Is My Neptune

V5, Boulder, 12 ft (4 m),  Avg: 3.2 from 5 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > Grand Junction… > Unaweep Canyon > Nine Mile Hill > Nine Mile Bould… > Blue Moon Bould… > Local Group Area > Lenny Rock

Description

Uranus Is My Nepune ascends a blunt, overhanging arete.

Crouch start with a left hand jug, a right hand pinch, a pasted left foot, and a right toe hook. From there, pop a left out to a bump on the arete, stab out to a right sidepull crimp, slap a left up the blank arete (crux?), move the right to a sloping bump (crux?), gain the left hand pinch, move the right to some bumps and sidepull. At that point, the rock's relief makes for a welcome rest before finishing up the slab through the tree branches.

The key to this lies in maintaining tension on the right toe hook.

Location

This ascends the west face of Lenny Rock.

Protection

A pair of pads will do, the landing is good but is gently sloping.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Start position of Uranus Is My Neptune.
[Hide Photo] Start position of Uranus Is My Neptune.
Uranus Is My Neptune problem beta.
[Hide Photo] Uranus Is My Neptune problem beta.
Staring down the sloper on Uranus Is My Neptune.  Squeeze that toe hook!
[Hide Photo] Staring down the sloper on Uranus Is My Neptune. Squeeze that toe hook!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ryan Hinrichs
Grand Junction, CO
[Hide Comment] The right hand you bump out to has broken off. The problem still goes, but the move out to it is much more difficult now. Not sure if it changes the grade or not. Apr 3, 2020
Nolan Robertson
Durango, CO
  V5
[Hide Comment] I did this from one move lower than the start, and it was super super fun! I love the powerful movement throughout. Certainly a classic for me even though some of the rock down lower is a bit manky. Nov 20, 2022