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Routes in Punk Rock (aka Beagle Rocks)

Cole-Gordon Offwidth T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Johnny Rotten TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Punked Out Porpoise T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
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Type: Trad, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Craig Fry, Dave Evans, Jim Angione, 11/1979
Page Views: 572 total · 10/month
Shared By: john durr on Dec 18, 2013
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description [Suggest Change]

Great JT adventure climbing on an obvious line leads to a very nice summit. A handful of 5.8 moves at the start are followed by engaging jug hauling.

A thoughtless person could probably tear most of the holds/route off and leave it all at the base so be careful!

Start at a left slanting thin crack behind a boulder, hand traverse left on jugs to huge hollow plates end on a large ledge and gear belay using 2" cams or sling plates (5.8+ ~70 feet).

Above follow giant steep holds up to a fine thin hands crack leading to the summit and gear belay with 2-3" cams (5.7+ ~70 feet).

Enjoy the view.

Location [Suggest Change]

Southwest face of Punk Rock is this obvious line we have all looked up at while heading to Mental Physics.

An arduous boulder scrambling approach directly from the main trail below the rock leads to the climb's start.

Descent is a short exposed 4th class off the northeast corner of the summit block. Fun 3rd class scrambling northwest toward Lenticular Dome will lead you back to the route's start.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Standard JT rack to 2" with one 3" cam for the last belay. Small cams for the crux and traverse. There are no fixed anchors on this route, please don't add any.

Photos

D. Evans
Tustin, California
D. Evans   Tustin, California
The name of this route came from a formation we saw in a cave/chimney on the descent. It was a crazy porpoise sculpture (by the hand of god) and was "punked out." May 1, 2016
mhagny Hagny
  5.8-
mhagny Hagny  
  5.8-
This is very frightening. The entire feature on the lower half is creaking and vibrating the whole time you're on it. Not worth the risk, IMO. The gear on it is plenty suspect too, and most any of the holds could pop off at any time. Apr 18, 2018

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