Type: Trad, Sport, 75 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 819 total · 13/month
Shared By: Jeff Scheuerell on Dec 18, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Access Issue: Protect Access in Owens River Gorge! Details

Description

One of the better gear routes in the Gorge. Follows a thin crack with thoughtful movement between positive holds and edges. When the crack ends 3 bolts protect the fairly continuous face above.

Location

Left of the obvious wide crack that is down and left of Nirvana.

Protection

I placed a  pink Tricam  and few  stoppers and a small cam/blue TCU I think.

Photos

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Simon W
Nowhere Land
Simon W   Nowhere Land
I led this with 2-3 previous gear leads under my belt (all in Tuolumne and in the 5.7-5.8 range) and found the gear to be pretty tricky.

All of my placements were good, but they were almost all nuts and I got pretty pumped placing a few.

There is a bomber .5 Camalot C4 placement about 25' up that was my first truly multidirectional piece.

The climbing is fun up above, but not as tightly bolted as most of the later gorge routes. Jun 2, 2014
Aaron Johnston
fort collins
Aaron Johnston   fort collins
5.10a seems like a bit of a sandbag, I think the book's 10b is probably spot on. As for the gear, maybe tricky is not the right word, but it is definitely not straight forward crack climbing. The 'crack' is very broken, and intermittent. On the onsight burn, it was heady for me because the next gear placement is sometimes not visible at all. Feb 27, 2016