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Bag of Bones T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bone Up S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bury The Bone S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Butterknife T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chillin at the Grill S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Darshan (aka Ripoff) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Expressway S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Feudal Beerlords T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fork it Over S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Nate's Proud Pearl Necklace S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Nirvana S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Offramp S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
One Holer T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Orange Peel S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Road kill S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Santana S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scrutinized S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Skeletons in the Closet S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Spinal Fracture S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tumbling Dice S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Uncertainty Principle S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Sport, 75 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 598 total, 12/month
Shared By: Jeff Scheuerell on Dec 18, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

One of the better gear routes in the Gorge. Follows a thin crack with thoughtful movement between positive holds and edges. When the crack ends 3 bolts protect the fairly continuous face above.

Location

Left of the obvious wide crack that is down and left of Nirvana.

Protection

Marty's book says the protection is tricky??? I did place a Tricam but other than that a few obvious stoppers and a small cam should suffice.

Photos

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aaronsj89
fort collins
aaronsj89   fort collins
5.10a seems like a bit of a sandbag, I think the book's 10b is probably spot on. As for the gear, maybe tricky is not the right word, but it is definitely not straight forward crack climbing. The 'crack' is very broken, and intermittent. On the onsight burn, it was heady for me because the next gear placement is sometimes not visible at all. Feb 27, 2016
Simon W
Nowhere Land
Simon W   Nowhere Land
I led this with 2-3 previous gear leads under my belt (all in Tuolumne and in the 5.7-5.8 range) and found the gear to be pretty tricky.

All of my placements were good, but they were almost all nuts and I got pretty pumped placing a few.

There is a bomber .5 Camalot C4 placement about 25' up that was my first truly multidirectional piece.

The climbing is fun up above, but not as tightly bolted as most of the later gorge routes. Jun 2, 2014