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Stick Boy

5.11+, Sport, 40 ft,  Avg: 1.7 from 9 votes
FA: Mike and Laura Orr
Washington > Central-W Casca… > N Bend & Vicinity > Exit 38 > Exit 38: Decept… > Substation

Description

hard start like a boulder problem then soft for the given grade of 12a?, recommend stick clip.

Location

3rd route in from left side.

Protection

8 bolts including anchor

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Chris Blodgett
seattle
 
[Hide Comment] Looking at this in person, we tried to go straight up to the bolts, but after many failed attempts we found a route up to the right. I just want to verify this is the intended route as it isn't clear when trying to climb the route. If it is to the right it should be an 11 as it is not a 12. If its straight up, I'd love to see the beta. :) Jul 20, 2015
Mack Johnson
Silverdale, WA
 
[Hide Comment] Going out the low overhang is tough, with the crux before the first bolt. The lower part is wet until summer. Jul 5, 2019
Chris Stocking
Seattle, WA
 
[Hide Comment] A muscle-y V4/5 to start, followed by a solid rest and 10- climbing to the top. Guidebook has it as .12a, which ... maybe? Hard to grade a climb like this. As others commented, I think the 12a variation goes basically straight up to the first bolts. Starting right would make it much easier.

There are definitely not 8 bolts on this line. I think it was more like 6 (maybe 5). Two bolts low on the route provide good protection for the crux start, but it's quite run-out to the third bolt. You can easily set a TR from Bwana. Sep 2, 2019