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Routes in Oasis

Eleventh Heaven S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hard to Handle S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Midnight at the Oasis S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Oasis S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Smokestack Lightning S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown (Right of Midnight...) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Scott Ayers
Page Views: 408 total · 7/month
Shared By: "Canada" Eric Ruljancich on Dec 15, 2013
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

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7 Opinions

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A fun balancy and technical route on decent rock. This climbs a lot like the top of Tsunami at Windy Point. The holds are generally plentiful, but choosing how to use them, and keeping the pump at bay is the challenge. The rock is a bit funky, especially at the start, but seems to be decently solid. If the rock were better it would get another star. The movement is quite good.


Second bolted route from the left. Starts up a broken corner system, with two small saguaros growing just the right. Trends right after the 4th bolt.




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jbak .
jbak .   tucson,az
12b ? You been eatin too much bacon ? Dec 16, 2013
Joe Kreidel
San Antonio, TX
Joe Kreidel   San Antonio, TX
He probably is trying not to confuse us, as he usually does when he calls a climb, "12, eh?" Dec 16, 2013
Man, tough crowd.

This is most definitely harder than the wizard, and any 12a I have been on recently. Upper crux hold seems a lot smaller than I remember it, and I would wager that that being taller would make this feel a bit easier.

I might settle for 12a/b, but that is all you are going to get out of this Canadian eh? Dec 17, 2013
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
Hahaha tough crowd. Dec 17, 2013
jbak .
jbak .   tucson,az
Yeah the Wizard is pretty stout for 5.11... :) ;) Dec 17, 2013
Hah Hah, John and Joe. Well played, well played. Dec 17, 2013
John O'Brien
John O'Brien  
I'd agree with Eric (who suggested I try this route one day at the Beach a few months ago, thanks!) that it feels harder than the Wizard and Ecstatic Electricity, both of which I did last season pretty quickly. But I'm just breaking into 12s and maybe I'm eager to get a 12b on my scorecard, so what do I know ;)

Either way, I loved this route! Definitely some questionable rock, but thankfully not in the crux sections. Get on it! Feb 27, 2018

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