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Routes in Stonehenge

Crazy Horse T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
How's it Hanging? T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
One Epic Leads to Another T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Phoenix, The T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13
Warning T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Steve Levin & Kevin Bein, 1980
Page Views: 90 total, 2/month
Shared By: slevin on Dec 15, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

Climb the wide crack with difficulty. Where it ends move up and right on thin crystals to a bolt. Continue up to a second bolt and make a few thin (5.9 ?) moves to easier ground.

This was led ground-up and onsight. I spent a long time trying to avoid placing the second bolt, using RPs for pro instead, climbing up and down, but finally opted to drill and promptly broke the drill bit. Kevin tied me off to the railing and ran back to the car, returning a while later with another bit.

Location

The overhanging wide crack just off the trail on the left, about 150 feet downhill from the dam.

Protection

Wide stuff for the crack. Two bolts for the face.

Photos

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Mike McNeil
Spearfish, South Dakota
Mike McNeil   Spearfish, South Dakota
Steve that route looks awesome. Is the offwidth the crux? Dec 17, 2013
bolts replaced summer 2013, cool story about the drill bit breaking! Dec 16, 2013