Type: Trad, 175 ft, 2 pitches
FA: 1975 Hugh Dougher & Henry Mcmahon
Page Views: 544 total · 9/month
Shared By: Jonah Klein on Dec 14, 2013 with updates from Northeast Mountain Guiding
Admins: SMarsh

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Description

This was a good climb but very dirty with Foliage and brush at this time of year. I did this December 7th, so its probably better in spring or summer. Has a decent traverse to the right, so make sure you bring plenty of protection. To get to the start, Walk the base line past the Rib, up around the next bend and look for the large wedge. A few trees at the base.

Historic Note: The story behind this route from Doug Greene (who was watching Hugh and Henry climb it in 1975. All 3 were guides here in the 1970's). Hugh had place a piton and couldn't get it out. After several hits wit ha hammer and tugs it popped out and smacked him in the mouth chipping his tooth.

Location

To start the route you can pick any number of ways to get to the first clearing off the base floor. about 45 feet up, for this route, you must go right and follow the crack, traverse right to the face, and scale the face up to the top ridge.

Protection

Slings on horns and trees, cams and nuts.

Photos

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