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All Thumbs

V10, Boulder, 8 ft (2 m),  Avg: 3.2 from 6 votes
FA: Boone Speed fall/winter 1994
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Boulders - Litt… > Secret Garden > All Thumbs Boulder
Access Issue: UDOT will ticket cars parked on the south side of the canyon opposite the Secret Garden bouldering area. Details
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

All Thumbs is about as good as a lowball can be. This fun little lip traverse begins sitting/laying down with the feet to the left and hands on an edge. Work the slopey lip rightward to a crimp over the lip, then continue to the right arete and mantel. This climb is very conditions dependent. It will feel impossible in the summer and almost doable in cold temperatures.

The original problem did not traverse all of the way to the arete, it manteled directly. I feel that this version is ever so slightly more difficult and more enjoyable. I also think this way is a higher quality problem. Some people still do it this way, and I believe refer to it as All Thumbs Direct, though this method was the original version. All Thumbs must be one of the most climbed V10's in Little Cottonwood. You will never be more than 4 feet off the deck, making working the problem easy and accessible. It may seem trivial at first glance, but the movement and holds are thoroughly engaging.

Location

South side of the All Thumbs boulder

Protection

none required

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Dallin working "All Thumbs"
[Hide Photo] Dallin working "All Thumbs"

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] I could never get the mantle... Dec 1, 2019