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Boulder, 8 ft (2 m),
Avg: 3.2 from 6
FA: Boone Speed fall/winter 1994
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Little Cottonwo…
> Boulders - Litt…
> Secret Garden
> All Thumbs Boulder
Access Issue: UDOT will ticket cars parked on the south side of the canyon opposite the Secret Garden bouldering area.
During the SCLA/Access Fund Adopt-a-Crag Event (Fall 2007), climbers built a new trail from the Little Cottonwood Park-and-Ride. The trail provides easy access to lower canyon bouldering and climbing at the Bongeater and Crescent Crack Buttresses. To avoid traffic problems on the highway and tickets from the Utah Department of Transportation, please use the Park-and-Ride parking to access lower canyon bouldering and climbing. UDOT will ticket cars parked on the south side of the canyon opposite the Secret Garden bouldering area.
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed. Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
All Thumbs is about as good as a lowball can be. This fun little lip traverse begins sitting/laying down with the feet to the left and hands on an edge. Work the slopey lip rightward to a crimp over the lip, then continue to the right arete and mantel. This climb is very conditions dependent. It will feel impossible in the summer and almost doable in cold temperatures.
The original problem did not traverse all of the way to the arete, it manteled directly. I feel that this version is ever so slightly more difficult and more enjoyable. I also think this way is a higher quality problem. Some people still do it this way, and I believe refer to it as All Thumbs Direct, though this method was the original version. All Thumbs must be one of the most climbed V10's in Little Cottonwood. You will never be more than 4 feet off the deck, making working the problem easy and accessible. It may seem trivial at first glance, but the movement and holds are thoroughly engaging.