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Shaxaraxtma Waterfall

WI3+, Trad, Ice, 8 pitches,  Avg: 4 from 2 votes
FA: unknown
International > Asia > Kyrgyzstan > Ala Archa NP > Ratsek Trail & Ak Sai…

Description

Sharkaraktma is the Kyrgyz word for waterfall. This waterfall is generally one of the first to freeze each year. The approach is quite easy, although a long hike. From the Ala Archa parking lot, follow the trail to base camp. After the long flat section of the trail you'll go down into a river gorge where usually you cross to continue to the Ak Sai waterfall or to the Ratsek Basecamp further up the valley. Instead, put on your crampons and start hiking up the frozen river. You'll eventually see the first in a series of falls.

The first "waterfall" is only about 3-4 meters tall. you should be able to solo up this no problem.

The second fall is about 4-5 meters tall. Again, solo this one.

The third waterfall is 3-4 meters tall. This one you may solo with a bit of dry-tooling mixed in.

The fourth waterfall is a bit bigger at 8-10 meters. You can solo this one as well, but you may feel the need to rope up for this one.

Then there is a 5 minute walk to the fifth section. You can climb the ice or dry tool your way up the left hand side.

The sixth waterfall is about 6 nice meters. Solo or roped.

The seventh section is a good 15-18 meters. If you've got a good year of ice, then it has a couple options, one on the left and one on the right with an optional mixed route through the middle.  Left side is the easier side as it is a lower angle around 65-70 degrees. Solo or roped.

The eighth waterfall is the one you came for. 25 meters of (near) vertical ice. Rope up and have some fun!  

The ninth waterfall (right above the eighth and maybe close enough to include on the same rope as the eighth) is a pretty cool little piece of ice.  About 8-10 meters of climbing, but fairly easy with easy protection placement.

Waterfall 10 is approximately 1 km up the river valley and on the left fork of the river.  (The river forks about .7km up the valley).  It consists of multiple steps with some short sections of vertical ice.  No more than 20 meters.  

 

Waterfall 11 is a short waterfall approximately 1 km above waterfall 10.  10-15 meters in height.  It tops out in a scree valley about 500 vertical meters below the Komsomol trail.  

 

The recommended walk-off is to link up with the right fork of the river by crossing the steep terrain to the south east and walk down the ice to the traditional walk-off location.   

The right fork of the river has not been fully explored and may have additional waterfalls in it.

Protection

Bring enough screws for a 25 meter pitch of ice. You might consider bringing some cams and nuts for some of the sections with lots of exposed rock, but likely you wouldn't bother with them.

Rappel anchors have been placed at most of the sections (although there may be anchors at each waterfall. I have just not been able to find them all). ***Note*** The anchors have all been chopped.  In 2020 I was unable to find any of them at all.  Your options are to either V-thread your way back down, or you can finish out the climb past the 9th pitch and then hike up and out to the left eventually connecting up with the Komsomolets trail.  

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

10th waterfall approach
[Hide Photo] 10th waterfall approach
11th waterfall
[Hide Photo] 11th waterfall
Eighth pitch of ice, the one you came to climb.  Near the top it is best to stay to the right to avoid some thin ice into the water underneath.  Photo taken by Max Severin and used with permission.
[Hide Photo] Eighth pitch of ice, the one you came to climb. Near the top it is best to stay to the right to avoid some thin ice into the water underneath. Photo taken by Max Severin and used with permission.
Ninth pitch of ice.  A fun little one we're calling "Biscuits and Gravy".  Photo taken by Max Severin and used with permission.
[Hide Photo] Ninth pitch of ice. A fun little one we're calling "Biscuits and Gravy". Photo taken by Max Severin and used with permission.
Sixth mini pitch of ice on the way up to Shaxaraxtma.  Stay left and its an easy solo to the top.
[Hide Photo] Sixth mini pitch of ice on the way up to Shaxaraxtma. Stay left and its an easy solo to the top.
Seventh pitch of ice.  This one is about 18 meters and can be climbed on the left (easiest) the right (thin ice so don't swing too hard) or the center line for a bit of a mixed route.  65-70 degrees and can be soloed if you are confident.
[Hide Photo] Seventh pitch of ice. This one is about 18 meters and can be climbed on the left (easiest) the right (thin ice so don't swing too hard) or the center line for a bit of a mixed route. 65-70 degree…
Fourth mini pitch on the way up to Shaxaraxtma
[Hide Photo] Fourth mini pitch on the way up to Shaxaraxtma
Fifth mini pitch of ice on the way to Shaxaraxtma.  This ice is always super thin for some reason so you might end up peeling it all off.
[Hide Photo] Fifth mini pitch of ice on the way to Shaxaraxtma. This ice is always super thin for some reason so you might end up peeling it all off.
Third mini pitch on the way up to Shaxaraxtma.
[Hide Photo] Third mini pitch on the way up to Shaxaraxtma.
Second mini pitch of ice on the way up to Shaxaraxtma
[Hide Photo] Second mini pitch of ice on the way up to Shaxaraxtma
First mini pitch of solo ice on the way up to Shaxaraxtma
[Hide Photo] First mini pitch of solo ice on the way up to Shaxaraxtma
Solo ice on an easy 15 meter pitch in Sharkaraktma.
[Hide Photo] Solo ice on an easy 15 meter pitch in Sharkaraktma.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Amadeus DeKastle
Bishkek, KG
  WI3+
[Hide Comment] Came up here on December 7, 2013. The ice was not fully frozen, but was just hard enough to climb all but the final vertical pitch as there was a section about 4 meters tall halfway up where you could see water running underneath. Thin ice and running water doesn't make a good combo... Dec 8, 2013
Amadeus DeKastle
Bishkek, KG
  WI3+
[Hide Comment] Finally was able to come back out here December 12, 2020, 7 years after my first time. The winter has been consistently cold and so the ice this year was super, and the top two pitches were solidly in. All the rappel bolts have been chopped though...so the only option for getting out is to V-thread your way back down or hike out to the Komsomolets trail. Dec 15, 2020