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Routes in Ratsek Trail and Ak Sai Glacier Area

Kyrgyzstani Scenic Cruise T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Schwaba T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Sharkaraktma Waterfall T WI3-
Squishy Surprise T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, Ice, 8 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 170 total, 3/month
Shared By: Amadeus on Dec 7, 2013
Admins: Amadeus

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Description

Sharkaraktma is the Kyrgyz word for waterfall. This waterfall is generally one of the first to freeze each year. The approach is quite easy, although a long hike. From the Ala Archa parking lot, follow the trail to base camp. After the long flat section of the trail you will go down into a river gorge where usually you cross to continue to base camp. Instead, put on your crampons and start hiking up the frozen river. You will eventually see the first in a series of falls.

The first "waterfall" is only about 3-4 meters tall. you should be able to solo up this no problem.

The second fall is about 4-5 meters tall. Again, solo this one.

The third waterfall is 3-4 meters tall. This one you may solo with a bit of dry-tooling mixed in.

The fourth waterfall is a bit bigger at 8-10 meters. You can solo this one as well, but you may fell the need to rope up for this one.

Then there is a 5 minute walk to the fifth section. You can climb the ice or dry tool your way up the left hand side.

The sixth waterfall is about 6 nice meters. Solo or roped.

The seventh section is a good 13-15 meters. Solo or roped.

The eighth waterfall is the one you came for. 25 meters of vertical ice. Rope up and have some fun!

Protection

Bring enough screws for a 25 meter pitch of ice. You may even consider bringing some cams and nuts for some of the sections with lots of exposed rock.

Rappel anchors have bee placed at most of the sections (although there may be anchors at each waterfall. I have just not been able to find them all).

For sure you will find anchors at the 5th-8th waterfall and possibly one at the 3rd?

Photos

Amadeus
Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan
 
Amadeus   Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan  
 
Came up here on December 7, 2013. The ice was not fully frozen, but was just hard enough to climb all but the final vertical pitch as there was a section about 4 meters tall halfway up where you could see water running underneath. Thin ice and running water doesn't make a good combo... Dec 8, 2013