[Hide Comment] Climbed this route on June 21, 2014 with my wife, Michele. We had good snow almost the whole way, only getting sugary in spots on the last 100 feet or so. We put a rope on for the last 50 feet of snow, as little sluffs were starting to spontaneously release here and there, and it was steep! Moving right to the snow patch under the North summit was not looking like a safe option with little snow connecting over, so we moved left and climbed to the South summit. After chilling for an hour or so, we rapped off the north side to the notch (look for it, the anchor is not real obvious, and we belayed ourselves to it), and roped up for a short pitch of wet rock on the southeast corner of the North summit. More chilling ensued, as the views of the Grand and everything were awesome and plentiful. Descent was straightforward down the Southwest Couloir. We camped at the Meadows for two nights, and the whole thing took about 11 hours, including about 1.5 hours hanging out on top. Left camp at 4:30am, which was a bit later than we planned on, but it all worked out. Jun 24, 2014

[Hide Comment] This was the steepest snow I have climbed so far. I felt slightly anxious about the route after reading some horror stories online. I was delighted when the conditions were about perfect other than we could have been at the summit block a titch earlier to avoid the constant sloughing from the steep summit slopes & hearing boulders pitch down Teepee gully, which was a bit nerve racking. It was fun being the only ones to summit the Middle the first day of summer 2014! I made a slideshow with a few more pics from our trip: John & Michele Middle Teton Glacier 6/21/2014 youtube.com/watch?v=xhmRMBw… Jun 24, 2014

[Hide Comment] Conditions of the glacier and upper section above the Black Dike Col will vary depending on the time of year. It seems like in June it is a snow climb and ski objective. In July it becomes firm snow and rock/mixed. August/September it becomes ice and rock/mixed. Be prepared with the proper pro and you'll be good! Jul 22, 2016

[Hide Comment] We climbed the route in a year that had a warm spring, so most of the route was water ice up to the rock climbing and scrambling. We followed the route description given in the NPS guide and it strikes me odd to read "You can make the rock climbing as easy or hard as you want" above. The roped rock climbing above the snow and ice appeared mandatory unless you're willing to solo easy 5th. I think the 5.5 grade is reasonable and there are only a few moves before it becomes more of a scramble but an unroped fall there would be serious. May 25, 2019

[Hide Comment] We climbed as a 3 man party on June 12, 2021. We encountered some very steep snow, AI, and even a short section of WI near the summit. Due to a very warm year, we had weakening layers of snow bridges and made the decision to climb several 5.6 to 5.7 rock pitches. Many sections went rock/snow/rock/ice, (see picture) etc. Most sections were simul-climbed. We topped out on the South summit. Found the webbing, backed it up, rapped. Then lead another two pitches of rock and WI2 to the true summit. What a great day out! Apr 23, 2022