PRINT: Rock Climb Commitment to Excrement, Red Rocks

Commitment to Excrement

5.11a, Sport, 100 ft (30 m),

Avg: 3.2 from 92 votes
FA: Xavier Wasiak and Gary Fike, 2003
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > Sandstone Quarry > Calico Hills Trail > Running Man Wall

Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste Details

WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS DURING OR AFTER RAIN. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery bone-dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.

See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.

Description

Named after the Raiders' poor Superbowl showing, this route climbs a tightly-bolted seam up the blunt arête/prow of that forms the right edge of the deep cleft that leads up to the Red Heat wall. More about balance than pump.

Protection

11 bolts. Bolted anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Route

A view of Commitment to Excrement from a distance. Just off to the right of running man wall.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Grant Mercer
Las Vegas, NV

5.11a/b

The first bolt is a bit of a sketchy boulder up, as there's a lot of room for error and a fall would cause some damage. Other than that although some of the bolts seem close, it's because you're about to hit a hard move to be warned. Minimal whippers and a fun route.

NOTE**: Not to be mistaken for the 5.8 - 5.9's , these are further to the right Feb 22, 2015

Gary Fike
Las Vegas, NV

This route was put-up by Xavier Wasiak and Gary Fike on January 26, 2003, Super Bowl Sunday. Xavier did the first red-point as he was and is a much better climber than me. We named the route "Commitment to Excrement" as a play on words of the Raiders motto "Commitment to Excellence". The Raiders "stunk" it up real bad losing by 27 points to the Buccaneers.
... Feb 23, 2015

Grant Mercer
Las Vegas, NV

5.11a/b

Word of warning: I can see the undercling coming off in the near future due to rain and irresponsible climbers, given that undercling about two thirds the way up comes off what would you think of the route then? It may need a revisit and reassessment of it's difficulty afterwards Feb 28, 2015

Flipper Baby
Las Vegas, NV

5.11a

A bolt was added recently (within the last year) to protect the first moves. Having led it both ways, this added bolt could arguably change the grade. Regardless, it is still one of my favorites in the area. Dec 21, 2016

Gary Fike
Las Vegas, NV

Wow. First, book-boy tries to rename our route (it was never called Guiuco Piano, that was just Handren not doing his homework). And now, the statement every first ascender loves to hear, "they added a bolt." I'll leave this topic with an admonition given to me by Brian McCray and Richard Harrison:
"If you can't climb it the way it was intended, then climb something else."
I'll chop that bolt when I get around to it.
Gary Fike Feb 23, 2017

Richard Fernandez
Flagstaff, AZ

So Mina, I'm genuinely curious. How does adding a bolt change the grade/rating of a climb? Are you pulling on it? Isn't the climbing still the climbing? Feb 19, 2019

Jan Tarculas
San Diego, Ca

5.11a

As of today, Dec 11, the bolt is still there and I personally think it’s nice to have. I totally understand “if you can’t climb the way it’s intended....” but the rest of the route is pretty well bolted. Why have a runout on 1st bolt if nothing else is run out?

I’d rather have a run out route and have big falls than a run out first bolt and potential of breaking a leg. That’s just my take. If bolt is chop, bring a stick clip. Worth doing if in the area. Dec 11, 2020

John Steiger

5.10d

Really nice line. I love the story for the name Gary -- thanks! IMO, don't chop the first bolt (added after the FA without consent) -- good to speak up, but save the rock. The rest is, as the OP puts it, "tightly-bolted." Jan 26, 2021

William Elliot
Las Vegas, NV

Bolt is still there as of February '24. Very fun line, technical and cool. Highly recommend getting on this one while you're up on the terrace. Feb 27, 2024

Todd Scheerer

Real good route, real long technical and of good quality. Reading the comments of the first bolt I find funny. This isn't some classic hard trad route, or some high ball boulder. This is sport climbing, tightly bolted sport climbing I might add, putting a high first bolt changes nothing other than create injuries or cause a pain in the ass for a stick clip. Nov 15, 2024