Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Xavier Wasiak & Gary Fike - 2003
Page Views: 1,277 total · 20/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Dec 5, 2013
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Named after the Raiders' poor Superbowl showing, or the chess opening, this route climbs a tightly-bolted seam up the blunt arete/prow of that forms the right edge of the deep cleft that leads up to the Red Heat wall. Not pumpy - more about balance.

Boulder up to the first bolt (bad landing). From there the route is tightly bolted and offers interesting climbing. Use care on a hollow undercling at mid-height. A soft touch for the given grade of 11c.

Protection

11 bolts. Bolted anchor.

Photos

Grant Mercer
Henderson, NV
  5.11a/b
Grant Mercer   Henderson, NV
  5.11a/b
The first bolt is a bit of a sketchy boulder up, as there's a lot of room for error and a fall would cause some damage. Other than that although some of the bolts seem close, it's because you're about to hit a hard move to be warned. Minimal whippers and a fun route.

NOTE**: Not to be mistaken for the 5.8 - 5.9's , these are further to the right Feb 22, 2015
Gary Fike
Las Vegas, NV
Gary Fike   Las Vegas, NV
This route was put-up by Xavier Wasiak and Gary Fike on January 26, 2003, Super Bowl Sunday. Xavier did the first red-point as he was and is a much better climber than me. We named the route "Commitment to Excrement" as a play on words of the Raiders motto "Commitment to Excellence". The Raiders "stunk" it up real bad losing by 27 points to the Buccaneers.
... Feb 23, 2015
Grant Mercer
Henderson, NV
  5.11a/b
Grant Mercer   Henderson, NV
  5.11a/b
Word of warning: I can see the undercling coming off in the near future due to rain and irresponsible climbers, given that undercling about two thirds the way up comes off what would you think of the route then? It may need a revisit and reassessment of it's difficulty afterwards Feb 28, 2015
Mina Canzon
Las Vegas, nv
  5.11a
Mina Canzon   Las Vegas, nv
  5.11a
A bolt was added recently (within the last year) to protect the first moves. Having led it both ways, this added bolt could arguably change the grade. Regardless, it is still one of my favorites in the area. Dec 21, 2016
Gary Fike
Las Vegas, NV
Gary Fike   Las Vegas, NV
Wow. First, book-boy tries to rename our route (it was never called Guiuco Piano, that was just Handren not doing his homework). And now, the statement every first ascender loves to hear, "they added a bolt." I'll leave this topic with an admonition given to me by Brian McCray and Richard Harrison:
"If you can't climb it the way it was intended, then climb something else."
I'll chop that bolt when I get around to it.
Gary Fike Feb 23, 2017