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El Escorpion

5.11a, Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 5 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 3.8 from 8 votes
FA: G. Cremaschi, M. Fernandez & G. Heras, 1993
International > S America > Argentina > Mendoza > Los Arenales > Grupo Campanille > Aguja Charles Webis


P1) Climb up the dihedral and follow cracks till reaching a good ledge. Spicy and very good (5.10d, 50m).

P2) Continue up on blocky terrain, linking cracks to a good ledge/stance before a dihedral. Great pitch (5.10b, 40m).

P3) Begins by surmounting a roof to the right and right at the roof stepping right into another crack (5.10c), then you either continue up the chimney, or take a right variation of the same difficulty which ends with a big step back left to an obvious horn (5.11a, 40m).

P4) Follow the wide crack then continue with hand cracks for a long pitch. Athletic climbing on excellent stone (5.10d, 50m).

P5) Climb moderate terrain to the summit (5.8, 30m).

DESCENT: All belays are bolted and the route can be rappelled until after pitch three. From the top, the standard descent is down the classic "Fuga de Cabras" route.


The route is located on Aguja Charles Webis. See Mendoza climbing guidebook available online or in Mendoza. The wall is 1.5 to 2 hrs from the Refugio. But there is a large concentration of climbs in the 5.10/11 range making it worth the approach.


A double rack from small micro cams to #3 Camalots. A single #4 Camalot. Leave the wired nuts.

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Trujillo crushing pitch 2 of the scorpion. Pitch three looms above....
[Hide Photo] Trujillo crushing pitch 2 of the scorpion. Pitch three looms above....