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Routes in Piz Ciavazes

"Bergfuehrerweg"/Route of the Guides. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Abram Arete T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Micheluzzi T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Buhl Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Kleine Micheluzzi/"Little Micheluzzi." T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Papa Giovanni Paolo II S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rampenfuehre / "Ramp" Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Roberta83 S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Schubert (Friendhip Route) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Via Irma T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Via Rossi - Tomasi T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zeni Corner T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 725 ft, 8 pitches
FA: A & T Gross, 1963
Page Views: 63 total, 1/month
Shared By: Rodger Raubach on Dec 3, 2013
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

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Description

This route climbs a line to the right of Rossi-Tomasi. The 5th pitch is the crux, rated at UIAA Gr. V A0, or alternatively UIAA Gr VI (5.9/5.9+). The first 3 leads are fairly easy climbing at 5.5-5.6; lead 4 is harder at 5.7-5.7+. The final pitches are mainly 5.6-5.7 climbing. This is one of the better "moderates" in the area.

Location

Same approach and starting point as the Rossi-Tomasi route. The descent is also the same, except that this route is also an "Abseil Piste" for getting off the Gamsband. There are 3 anchors in place for descent using dual 50 meter ropes.

Protection

Bolted and cemented piton belay anchors. Several "sanduhr" threads, several fixed pitons. Bring a normal Alpine rack and extra runners.

Photos

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This route may be followed on a rappel descent of the wall in less than perfect conditions. Two 165 foot ropes are required, and 4 abseils will bring one to the base of the wall. The upper anchor may be difficult to locate. Aug 10, 2015