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Rampenfuehre / "Ramp" Route

5.6, Trad, 1100 ft (333 m), 10 pitches,  Avg: 3.2 from 5 votes
FA: S. del Torso and E. Lezuo, 1935
International > Europe > Italy > Dolomites > Sella Group > Passo Sella Area > Piz Ciavazes

Description

This is the easiest route on Piz Ciavazes. It begins right of the Kleine Micheluzzi, past another alcove/gully system. Start is marked following local traditions. The 10 pitches are pretty uniform in difficulty, but slightly easier towards the top and the Gamsband. The climbing is mostly around 5.5-5.6. Pitch 6 is the "crux."

Location

This route lies to the right of Kleine Micheluzzi. Directions to that route should be consulted for the approach. Descend via the Gamsband path to Sellajoch. Some fixed lines and stanchions assist in the descent. There is an obvious gulley part way through the crossing of the Gamsband/ Chamois Terrace, one can take this and make 5 60m abseils to the bottom (single cemented ring anchors), or continue past it to descend a gulley below the second Sella tower. 

Protection

Bolt belays, and many fixed pitons. Bring runners and normal Alpine rack.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Hiking along the chamois band to find the descent. Don't take the first gulley you come across.
[Hide Photo] Hiking along the chamois band to find the descent. Don't take the first gulley you come across.
route starts in the corner and angles up right
[Hide Photo] route starts in the corner and angles up right
Having fun on the Ramp route.
[Hide Photo] Having fun on the Ramp route.
Topping out on the Ramp Route
[Hide Photo] Topping out on the Ramp Route
Matt Matera (kinda) pointing out the route, which follows the ramp system to the right or the obvious corner in the upper left of the photo.
[Hide Photo] Matt Matera (kinda) pointing out the route, which follows the ramp system to the right or the obvious corner in the upper left of the photo.
this is a photo dated 1986 ; it is the beginning of the route of via Della Rampa to Piz Ciavazez (Mount Sella Group in Dolomite) ; I am in the photo with red helmet and my mountain guide is up (he is a young Hans Peter Eisendle)
[Hide Photo] this is a photo dated 1986 ; it is the beginning of the route of via Della Rampa to Piz Ciavazez (Mount Sella Group in Dolomite) ; I am in the photo with red helmet and my mountain guide is up (he…
Two climbers visible on first belay ledge; third climber is nearing the second belay stance.
[Hide Photo] Two climbers visible on first belay ledge; third climber is nearing the second belay stance.
Rampenfuehre Area of Piz Ciavazes, from Sella Pass descent towards Passo Pordoi.
[Hide Photo] Rampenfuehre Area of Piz Ciavazes, from Sella Pass descent towards Passo Pordoi.
Early season bergschrund crux at the start of the Ramp route.
[Hide Photo] Early season bergschrund crux at the start of the Ramp route.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Rick Ziegler
Bishop, CA
  5.6 R
[Hide Comment] Good route on good rock. Just follow the lighter colored (aka polished) rock. We did this in 3 pitches with some simul climbing due to marginal weather.
This route probably deserves a R rating. Gear is sparse, even through the steeper sections. Jun 17, 2014
ddriver
SLC
[Hide Comment] I think the Italians call this Rampa Torso. Jun 28, 2017
matt matera
[Hide Comment] all belays have a cement ring except the top out, which you can sling a boulder or use a trad anchor. the route ends at the notable path on top of the terrace. Jul 9, 2019
Richard Hunter
Boston, MA
 
[Hide Comment] Great route, typical Dolomites choss and runout. That said, I don't think it is R in its present condition. There is fixed gear at all of the cruxes and I managed to to get at least 4 pieces of gear per pitch (1st pitch was the most sparse). I will say that the placements aren't obvious and may require some creativity. Jul 11, 2019