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Routes in Piz Ciavazes

"Bergfuehrerweg"/Route of the Guides. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Abram Arete T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Micheluzzi T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Buhl Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Kleine Micheluzzi/"Little Micheluzzi." T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Papa Giovanni Paolo II S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rampenfuehre / "Ramp" Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Roberta83 S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Schubert (Friendship Route) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Via Irma T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Via Rossi - Tomasi T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zeni Corner T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 1100 ft, 10 pitches
FA: S. del Torso and E. Lezuo, 1935
Page Views: 538 total · 9/month
Shared By: Rodger Raubach on Dec 3, 2013
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

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This is the easiest route on Piz Ciavazes. It begins right of the Kleine Micheluzzi, past another alcove/gully system. Start is marked following local traditions. The 10 pitches are pretty uniform in difficulty, but slightly easier towards the top and the Gamsband. The climbing is mostly around 5.5-5.6. Pitch 6 is the "crux."


This route lies to the right of Kleine Micheluzzi. Directions to that route should be consulted for the approach. Descend via the Gamsband path to Sellajoch. Some fixed lines and stanchions assist in the descent.


Bolt belays, and many fixed pitons. Bring runners and normal Alpine rack.


Rick Ziegler
  5.6 R
Rick Ziegler  
  5.6 R
Good route on good rock. Just follow the lighter colored (aka polished) rock. We did this in 3 pitches with some simul climbing due to marginal weather.
This route probably deserves a R rating. Gear is sparse, even through the steeper sections. Jun 17, 2014
ddriver   SLC
I think the Italians call this Rampa Torso. Jun 28, 2017

More About Rampenfuehre / "Ramp" Route