Type: Trad, 1100 ft (333 m), 10 pitches
FA: S. del Torso and E. Lezuo, 1935
Page Views: 1,139 total · 13/month
Shared By: Rodger Raubach on Dec 3, 2013 · Updates
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

You & This Route

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This is the easiest route on Piz Ciavazes. It begins right of the Kleine Micheluzzi, past another alcove/gully system. Start is marked following local traditions. The 10 pitches are pretty uniform in difficulty, but slightly easier towards the top and the Gamsband. The climbing is mostly around 5.5-5.6. Pitch 6 is the "crux."


This route lies to the right of Kleine Micheluzzi. Directions to that route should be consulted for the approach. Descend via the Gamsband path to Sellajoch. Some fixed lines and stanchions assist in the descent. There is an obvious gulley part way through the crossing of the Gamsband/ Chamois Terrace, one can take this and make 5 60m abseils to the bottom (single cemented ring anchors), or continue past it to descend a gulley below the second Sella tower. 


Bolt belays, and many fixed pitons. Bring runners and normal Alpine rack.