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> Sella Group
> Passo Sella Area
> Piz Ciavazes
Kleine Micheluzzi/"Little Micheluzzi."
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.9 from 12
votes
Routes in Piz Ciavazes
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"Bergfuehrerweg"/Route of the Guides. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Abram Arete T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Big Micheluzzi T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Buhl Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Kleine Micheluzzi/"Little Micheluzzi." T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Papa Giovanni Paolo II S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Rampenfuehre / "Ramp" Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Roberta83 S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Schubert (Friendship Route) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Via Irma T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Via Rossi - Tomasi T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Zeni Corner T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 1300 ft (394 m), 10 pitches |
| FA: | Luigi Micheluzzi & friends,1928 |
| Page Views: | 2,080 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Rodger Raubach on Dec 3, 2013 |
| Admins: | Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath |
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Description
This is a very popular and heavily travelled route. The lower 4 pitches ascend gray rock diagonally right and then follow an obvious ramp system trending left atop a buttress. A lead and a half traverses up and right is then necessary to avoid roofs, while the final 4 leads leading up to the Gamsband are more difficult at UIAA Gr. IV+ (5.6-5.7).
Location
The route is accessed from the Ciavazes parking area located between the Sellajoch and Pian-Schiavaneis Hut. The South face of Piz Ciavazes is split in the center by a steep gully system. The start of the route is on lower angle rock (comparatively speaking) to the right of the base of this gully. The start (Einsteig) is "marked." Descend by traversing along the "Gamsband" path towards Sellajoch, as previously described for the Rossi-Tomasi route.
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