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Routes in Piz Ciavazes

"Bergfuehrerweg"/Route of the Guides. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Abram Arete T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Micheluzzi T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Buhl Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Kleine Micheluzzi/"Little Micheluzzi." T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Papa Giovanni Paolo II S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rampenfuehre / "Ramp" Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Roberta83 S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Schubert (Friendhip Route) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Via Irma T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Via Rossi - Tomasi T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zeni Corner T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 1300 ft, 10 pitches
FA: Luigi Micheluzzi & friends,1928
Page Views: 323 total, 7/month
Shared By: Rodger Raubach on Dec 3, 2013
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

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Description

This is a very popular and heavily travelled route. The lower 4 pitches ascend gray rock diagonally right and then follow an obvious ramp system trending left atop a buttress. A lead and a half traverses up and right is then necessary to avoid roofs, while the final 4 leads leading up to the Gamsband are more difficult at UIAA Gr. IV+ (5.6-5.7).

Location

The route is accessed from the Ciavazes parking area located between the Sellajoch and Pian-Schiavaneis Hut. The South face of Piz Ciavazes is split in the center by a steep gully system. The start of the route is on lower angle rock (comparatively speaking) to the right of the base of this gully. The start (Einsteig) is "marked." Descend by traversing along the "Gamsband" path towards Sellajoch, as previously described for the Rossi-Tomasi route.

Protection

All belays have bolt anchors. Protection is adequate by fixed pitons. Bring runners and carabiners in addition to a normal Alpine rack.

Photos

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This climb is also listed in Classic Dolomite Climbs, Anette Koehler and Norbert Memmel, Baton-Wicks, 1999. It's their Route # 11. Dec 3, 2013
I was screwed out of doing this route this past year by a combination of injured knee and early snow in September. My information was abstracted from the German language guidebook, personal contact with it's author Mauro Bernardi, and other local climbers. Dec 3, 2013
This route lies to the right of the Big Micheluzzi, Schubert, and the central gully system. The Rampenfuehre, the easiest of lower face routes , lies just to the right from this climb. Dec 3, 2013