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Flyboy

5.12c, Sport, 35 ft (11 m),  Avg: 2.9 from 9 votes
FA: EFR, '90
Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mt Lemmon (Sant… > Mt Lemmon (Cata… > 3 - Windy Point… > Stovepipe

Description

Really fun route that climbs the arete just right of Doughboy. Underclings, side pulls, crimpers, this thing packs it all in.

Location

Starts on arete just right of Doughboy.

Protection

Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Shelby dancing up the tenuous arete, eyeing the victory finish
[Hide Photo] Shelby dancing up the tenuous arete, eyeing the victory finish
Cruxin
[Hide Photo] Cruxin

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
  5.12
[Hide Comment] This is a much better climb than I remember and well worth doing. I did the FA in a snow storm which may have colored my view of it. It may not be 12+ but it is closer to 12+ than 12-. It could also be that I am in much better shape than when I did the FA. Either way it is worth getting on. Nov 1, 2015
jbak x
tucson, az
[Hide Comment] It's a very good route, E. Good send for way back then too. Nov 2, 2015
Joe Kreidel
San Antonio, TX
 
[Hide Comment] With beta and chalked up holds, felt like 12b to me. Not to take away from anyone else's proud send, but to encourage others to not be intimidated by the grade - for me Windy Point 12+ is usually one of those grades I'm leery of. It's a fun route, and a lot different than the other 12s around it. Great movement on a variety of side pulls, arete slapping and more. Nov 3, 2015
Dominic Weinstock
Tucson, AZ
  5.12+
[Hide Comment] I'd say 12c/d is pretty spot on.......harder than Tsunami, and New Wave Direct ....IMO Nov 6, 2015
Austin Sobotka
Tucson, AZ
[Hide Comment] Took a few runs on this today thinking it was 12b (that's what my partner told me it was) and didn't think he had sand-bagged me. Also, one of us took a fall on the fourth bolt and noticed afterwards that it had partially pulled out from the wall. We took the hanger off so that nobody else gets on it and pulls the rest of the bolt out. This is a really fun route and definitely deserves (and needs) upgraded hardware! Dec 6, 2015
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
  5.12
[Hide Comment] HARDWARE UPGRADED 12/8/15 Big thanks to CASA's A Team, Tendon Ropes and the ASCA.
theclimbershome.com/
mytendon.com/products
safeclimbing.org/ Dec 8, 2015
P money
Tucson, AZ
  5.12c
[Hide Comment] This route climbs well and I'm thankful for the hardware update EFR. Tough one to grade since although the individual moves felt harder than anything on New Wave Direct, the hard section is over quickly. High end 12c for me, maybe easier for those with better style! Sep 25, 2017
[Hide Comment] This is a really cool route that seldom gets done, but definitely should see more traffic. It's short, powerful and has interesting movement! Feb 5, 2023