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Routes in Planetarium / Gecko Wall

Atomic Gecko S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Biohazard S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bubonic S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Buehler's Day Off S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Chronic S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Copernicus S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Dark Matter S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Galileo S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Galileo Left S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Planet X S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Planet Y S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Planetarium S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spaceballs S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Subatomic S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wind in the Willows S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Patrick O'Donnell
Page Views: 263 total, 5/month
Shared By: Patrick O'Donnell on Dec 1, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

25m up canyon from Atomic Gecko and just before the canyon opens up to the Big Horn wall there is a thin desperate crack on the left. Bolts protect bouldery moves through the bottom. a desperate dihedral leads to a stance and final roof crack. bring several pieces for the roof crack. one bolt protects the final crack moves.

Location

25m up canyon from Atomic Gecko.

Protection

bolts and a few pieces of gear.

Photos

I threw myself at this thing without knowing the grade...hard! Alex any beta for coming out of the undercling to get into the dihedral? I was only able once to desperately go right hand to a crimp on the left face of the dihedral, work my feet, use an intermediate mono for the left, and then cross left to the fist "hold" in the crack. Sep 5, 2017
The rock quality doesn't start out great and the cheater-stone pile is a bit wobbly but I think this is a very good pitch - it's so different than everything else in the canyon. There's no just reaching through the crux on this one...You gotta tech-stem burl it out! Most will only need 2 or 3 cams in the #.5 - #2 Camalot range for the crack before the last bolt. No gear necessary over the roof. Go do it!!! Sep 13, 2016